64s 83 #1 Posted May 8, 2014 I'm finally going to use my tiller that's been sitting for a couple of years and was wondering if there's any tips you guys might have. I think I've heard to use 1 low for geared trannies. Will ags help?? Front weights?? Any tips from the experts is appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,395 #2 Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) I used front and back weights on mine. I only run in low low with a C-121 eight speed. Every end of a row lift and stop tiller on PTO arm. I used the next to last chain link for two passes then lower when the ground is harder , more grass covered or soil that has not been tilled. Full throttle on passes and you will be all set! These Wheel Horse tillers are great! Edited May 8, 2014 by Lane Ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
64s 83 #3 Posted May 8, 2014 Thanks, looking forward to it!! I see you are running turf tires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #4 Posted May 8, 2014 I use similar to Lane Ranger except no weights at all. I do have Ags on the rear, however. I run in first or second gear in the low range. If is a new area, it is first gear low only and you cannot take a big bite (depth). Once the soil has been broken you can go deeper and after it has been tilled a few times, second gear (low only) is OK for me. I am running this on a C141-8. I have heard that hydros are not as good as the tiller will tend to push the tractor, but I have no experience to back it up. Also, to second Lane's comment "Every end of a row lift and stop tiller on PTO arm". You will have lots of fun! P.S. make sure you have the lift assist spring or your left arm will get real tired real quick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swarfeater 49 #5 Posted May 8, 2014 only weight is water in the tires, no ags just chains. low range, first gear, full throttle, tiller all the way down. just hold on the brake when you first lower the tiller or she will jump. good job but wont go very deep, so after I till full depth I use my homemade subsoiler set at 12" deep on the big tractor on 6" centers then another pass with the tiller. easy work !!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jachady 130 #6 Posted May 8, 2014 I always use low range in 1st gear, and at that I'll still feather the clutch. Remember that the body of the tiller will sit up on the hard ground so you will have to either overlap your lines or cross-till until you have worked up the ground enough to get the tiller to go deeper. I can get my tiller to dig so deep the front edge of the shroud ends up pushing dirt. You don't need special tires or weights but weight in the front will help the front of the tractor from lifting when you are driving around with the tiller on. I don't use a lift spring as it prevents the tiller from digging as deep but if you need it for lifting assistance then go ahead and use it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
64s 83 #7 Posted May 9, 2014 Thanks for the advice guys, hopefully within the next 10 days I'll have some fun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brandonozz 168 #8 Posted May 9, 2014 I always use low range in 1st gear, and at that I'll still feather the clutch. Remember that the body of the tiller will sit up on the hard ground so you will have to either overlap your lines or cross-till until you have worked up the ground enough to get the tiller to go deeper. I can get my tiller to dig so deep the front edge of the shroud ends up pushing dirt. You don't need special tires or weights but weight in the front will help the front of the tractor from lifting when you are driving around with the tiller on. I don't use a lift spring as it prevents the tiller from digging as deep but if you need it for lifting assistance then go ahead and use it. Same here, feather the clutch in low/low - using a C120-8. This tractor is my main tiller tractor so I may try to do a pulley swap some day to slow it down a bit. I don't use a lift assist spring either. I do think weight on the front helps with the steering as the soil gets "soft" and my garden doesn't have easy access so I need to be able to maneuver. If making long straight passes the weight for steering will likely not be needed as much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #9 Posted May 9, 2014 Not to steal this thread but I just purchased a tiller and the model tag is missing any ideas on how to figure out what model it is? Thanks for any help Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #10 Posted May 9, 2014 Not to steal this thread but I just purchased a tiller and the model tag is missing any ideas on how to figure out what model it is? Thanks for any help Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2 Best bet send in picture of shroud over tines, tow attachment bar/assembly and mule/idler set up. That will help narrow down. You can also go to manuals>implements>ground engaging. Start at 36" Tiller 7-1252 and start working forward about 3 models, then go back to 7-1251 and go backwards about 3 models. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #11 Posted May 9, 2014 Best bet send in picture of shroud over tines, tow attachment bar/assembly and mule/idler set up. That will help narrow down. You can also go to manuals>implements>ground engaging. Start at 36" Tiller 7-1252 and start working forward about 3 models, then go back to 7-1251 and go backwards about 3 models. thanks groundhog I'll start a new thread on it with that information included Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #12 Posted May 9, 2014 Jachady and Brandonozz. I cannot bury my tiller as far in the ground as you guys, probably not much below the center line of the tines, just enough so the rear deflector just scrapes the ground. I do use the lift spring and my tines are pretty worn. However, I don't have to till much and it is way easier than turning the garden with a pitch fork (or even a moldboard plow). I appreciate the tip, Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jachady 130 #13 Posted May 12, 2014 Doc, heres an example of hiw low my tiller gets. I've actually had it where the big pulley is in the dirt a couple inches. Then, the belt picks up dirt, pulls it around the pto and then flings it at me. At that point the rear flap is completely sitting on the ground. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #14 Posted May 16, 2014 Here are some pic of the tiller. Decided to put it on my C81 instead of the 314. Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #15 Posted May 16, 2014 Oops sorry, wrong tread. Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites