slammer302 2,154 #26 Posted June 3, 2014 No problem glad to help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,406 #27 Posted June 3, 2014 If you have the belt cover off the right side, put it back on. It is required to give the right slack to disengage the belt from the pulley when you push down on the pedal. You have two good halves of that hood. A body shop can fix that up in no time. I would advise getting a price first. I used to live there, and then out in Goodfield. Back in my earliest collector days I had a hood worked on by a welding shop on the edge of town, wish I could remember the name. But they did a pretty poor job and it was really freakin expensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cyclist 2 #28 Posted June 4, 2014 If you have the belt cover off the right side, put it back on. It is required to give the right slack to disengage the belt from the pulley when you push down on the pedal. You have two good halves of that hood. A body shop can fix that up in no time. I would advise getting a price first. I used to live there, and then out in Goodfield. Back in my earliest collector days I had a hood worked on by a welding shop on the edge of town, wish I could remember the name. But they did a pretty poor job and it was really freakin expensive. Was it Wherry's Machine & Welding on the southwest side of Bloomington? Heritage Machine & Welding is more in town. I believe they are both brothers. The company I work for has used them both. Wherry's is a lot more accurate with brake press work these days. Our company is also a weld shop, but no brake press. But we have a paint booth. Bet my 502 makes a pass through! If I can mechanically get her into shape, cosmetically I would give it a go. I do like the length of that hood. The Briggs & Stratton, I found out today, is a 1972. Can still get parts off shelf and most of what I was looking for was in stock. Surprising. Does that shim at the bottom go above or below the belt. When I took it off it was below. Kind of looks like the belt has ridden against it in the past though. I also straightened the rod that leads from the clutch/brake pedal to lever engaging clutch. And backed off the brake pad quite a bit to hopefully engage the clutch more before the brake pad engages. Not sure if my problem was the routing of the belt or the lack of free-play in the pedal. All thoughts are most welcomed. Thanks all! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cyclist 2 #30 Posted July 5, 2014 Update: yesterday I tore down the carb for the second time and this time replaced the gasket that sealed the top half of the carb. This allowed me to soak it and scrub it clean. I did blow out something from a couple of ports with forced air before soaking. I think that made the difference. Runs great now! It's all greased up. I made a short test mow, ran reasonable good, but halfway through the 80 yard run it began smoking from exhaust.... I noticed it only when under load from mower deck. Is this the beginning of the end?? White smoke, no change in how it ran. Sounds good at idle and at full throttle. The new needle that came with carburetor rebuild kit was installed at factory setting for high side adjustment. The smoke started like someone turned on a switch. The motor oil is newly replaced, along with the plug. It is running pure gas, no ethanol. Thoughts, suggestions much appreciated. If I need to tear down the motor, I guess I can do that too. It's been a fun and educational experience so far. It's reassembled way better than the last time someone had been tinkering with it. Please help. What do you think the smoke means? I can also tell you, the motor leaks oil and I need to replace the fuel line from tank. Not sure yet where oil is coming from. Going to clean that up next to hopefully identify. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
