8HP Briggs . . flywheel won't budge

[PetesPonies1 117]

Trying to remove remove flywheel with ring gear ( electric start ) and cannot get it to break loose. I have used three different pullers, all bolt to the threaded holes in flywheel.I have broken two bolts so far .  use Oxy heat when puller pressure was applied, nothing. Anyone have one like this that didn't want to come loose? What did you do?

[Fordiesel69 270]

If using a hand held torch, forget it.  Use a two tank torch setup and heat one area only, and begin to pull.  Do not move the torch around, keep it in one spot.

[rmaynard 15,964]

Tighten the puller, then rap the end of it with a big hammer. The flywheel should pop right off. I have never had one fail to come off. The flywheel hub is tapered as is the crankshaft. It's not like pulling off a wheel hub.

[Wishin4a416 2,191]

If your breaking bolts, I would change to grade 8.

[PetesPonies1 117]

I broke one grade 8 bolt and one grade 5. I know how the shaft is made, I have pulled many of these, just not this one. I said I used Oxy heat . .was trying to be short . .  Oxy/Acet heat. I have a full tank setup.

 

This pic shows how it is now. This "puller" setup has the best geometry and stays the straightest . .  still no go'

Edited May 3, 2014 by PetesPonies1

[PetesPonies1 117]

OK . .  had someone stop by today that I was buying a 3 point hitch from. He messes with these tractors as well and when he saw my flywheel and I told him . .  he wanted to try. So he worked with it for about 10 minutes and said it was the first one he has seen that won't budge. Shook his head and left. So I worked with it more. I tried different pullers. The problem is keeping it straight, the puller. The small bolts want to bend or at the very least, slide some. I am putting so much pressure on it, having the puller so tight, I ended up bending the end of the crank. I was using heat on the flywheel, just wouldn't let go. I ended up breaking the front nose off the crank. That's how tight it was. Si I then used the pullers on the broken part. This way everything is closer, less chance of bending and sliding off center . . still not go. Unbelievable

 

 

Still couldn't keep it straight when I applied a tremendous amount of pressure to the puller.

 

.

[shorts 182]

For some reason sometimes the tapers will not release (someone over torqued the nut with an impact wrench) 1 other time I've seen this, an injection pump drive gear on a Cat diesel engine, finally ended up disassembling the engine and cutting the gear in 2 to remove it, the gear and labor probably cost more than a new horse.  Since the end of the crank has broken off you probably need to think about finding another engine.

[PetesPonies1 117]

Its an electric start engine and one that runs well. I honed and re-ringed it. I'm not giving up yet. If I have to, I will cut the flywheel off, but then need a new one of those. It didn't have a nut holding the flywheel on, just the ratchet drive for the pull start.

Edited May 4, 2014 by PetesPonies1

[PetesPonies1 117]

I got it off. I tried different pullers and such looking for one that stayed the straightest. I had the harmonic balancer puller sitting pretty good. I had about 80 ft/lbs on the puller. I kid you not, I told you this wasn't budging. I let it sit like this and then started heat again. I heated for about 10 minutes. Still nothing. I then started hitting the side of the flywheel with a hammer ( had done this before a few times ) and finally one hit did it, it broken loose. Unbelievable.

[shorts 182]

Pete, I'm concerned about trying to start or run that engine without a nut to hold the flywheel on, the recoil mechanism is/was the nut seating the flywheel to the taper on the crank and preventing it from coming off.  every time that you turn the key to engage the electric starter the starter drive will impact the back edge of the ring gear in effect hitting it with a hammer trying to unseat the flywheel from the tapered crankshaft. My concern is that the flywheel will part company with the crankshaft at speed and become a heavy flying projectile with no conscience as to who may be hit and injured by it or worse,.

I understand your commitment to get this engine running after spending the time and money to hone and re-ring it but please consider the consequences and either find a new crank or put the engine on the shelf for a reminder that you need to completely disassemble and evaluate an engine before you commit more time and money for repairs.

[PetesPonies1 117]

The threads are still there. Matter of fact, I have the recoil ratchet threaded back on the crank as normal. No problem with keeping the flywheel on  

[Fordiesel69 270]

However, you may want to really examine the flywheel for stress, you certainly would not want it to fly apart.

[PetesPonies1 117]

I went and bought a new flywheel key yesterday. I went to a small engine shop, told the owner the problem I had getting it off. He said he has run into that a lot and has to use heat as well to get them off.