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MalMac

Front Axel Pivot Pin

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MalMac

Ok can someone explain to me why just about every tractor I go to take the front axel off of the pivot pin has a broke weld on the tab that bolts to the axel to keep it in place and from rotating. One thing I did notice was the pin was always dry and not well greased. I don't know if that's part of the cause or what. This last pin shows very little signs of wear, it's tab just has the broken weld. Upon inspection looks like there was very little penetration from the weld into the pin itself. This just seems to be a common problem and a problem that I have seen through several different years of tractors. Has anybody come up with a better solution to keep this from happening. I guess until I can figure something better I will just tack it back with a few welds. On some tractors where the pin is worn and the front hole where the pin goes through is worn bad. I can see where the pin might move around and flex the small weld causing it to break. On tractors where the pin has little wear and there is no movement I find the tab still broke.

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Callen

I think that tab becomes a load bearing point if the bolt is tightened before the front axle is loaded. I also take all the load off the front axle when I grease it, so the grease can get to the load-bearing side of the pin. Same with greasing the spindles. I take a large screwdriver and push the top of the spindle down so the grease is forced out the bottom. That makes it steer easier, too.

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Don1977

I rebuilt over a year ago. Put " Rebuilt axle pivot " in the search box and you will find the tread. That tab is too thin and once the pin wears some it moves and the tab breaks.

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pacer

I find an awful lot of WH factory welds to be poor - poor penetration, bead off center, short tack, etc. Like you I find the axle pin weld broken, but I have yet to find a pin that wasnt worn - pretty badly. I replace the pin with a piece of 4140 round and have also had to weld a 'scab' piece over the 2 places on the frame where the pin goes thru.

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sorekiwi

Most of the ones I've seen broken have been where the tab has broken, not the weld.

 

I've made a couple of new pins, and used thicker steel to make the tab.  From memory I think the factory ses 1/8" and I have used 3/16".

 

I agree that worn holes in the frame greatly contribute to the pin flexing around and thus breaking the tab.

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