Removing blades

[The Walri 4]

Ok Ok....stupid question here...Trying to get the blades off my 42 Rd deck to sharpen for the season. I can't get the nuts loose for the life of me[emoji35] I've tried turning both ways [determined that turning counter clock wise is correct?], using PB blaster and an 18" socket with the blade holder attachment. What are your tricks short of an impact wrench? Thanks!

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[kaiser 100]

i have had some come off with a breaker bar when i'm able to block a blade with a 2x4. but most of the time i use an impact, it's the best way IMO.

[daveoman1966 3,841]

Impact Wrench is the only way out.  I have a Milwaukee electric imp wrench that never fails.

[The Walri 4]

Looks like a trip to harbor freight is in order for an impact wrench then!

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[pacer 3,177]

Yep, impact wrench. As said a trip to HF should fix you up and it wont hurt your wallet. If youve got air get one for air, if not get the electric - they are real handy for any stubborn nut/bolt (think flywheel, lug nut...)

[bmsgaffer 2,053]

I usually just stick a metal pipe on the end of my socket wrench... I always worry about the impact damaging threads.

I will probably try the impact this year

[Tim 97]

another vote for impact gun

[wrightorchid 261]

Yes, an impact is the only way to go.  You might want to replace the nuts if rusty, and be sure to uses grease or anti-seize.  Due to the rotation of the blades, the nuts will tend to tighten. You don't have to torque super tight. The only way I was able to remove the old ones was to cut wit a disk on a grinders, and split them.

if you use pipe on a long breaker bar, you can risk bending the deck/spindle out of alignment, if it doesn't budge.

Edited April 18, 2014 by wrightorchid

[bmsgaffer 2,053]

if you use pipe on a long breaker bar, you can risk bending the deck/spindle out of alignment, if it doesn't budge.

 

That is a good point! Never considered that.

[groundhog47 347]

Yes, thanks for doing that one for me, you made a believer of me

Yep, impact wrench. As said a trip to HF should fix you up and it wont hurt your wallet. If youve got air get one for air, if not get the electric - they are real handy for any stubborn nut/bolt (think flywheel, lug nut...)

[Chevydave 25]

I use a box end wrench and a hammer, never had a problem.

use some anti-sieze on the threads when you put them back on.

[Navig8r 132]

Most equipment recommends against using anything on the threads.... The reasoning is that the nut, or bolt depending on the mower, should be tight, with no lubricants on the threads, to minimize the chance of the fastener being 'driven' even tighter when a blade hits an object like a rock, etc.... 800+ hrs of mowing with my ZTR, I have never used anything, just keep the threads clean, and the only time I've had a real problem removing a blade was when I had hit an object HARD.... Really hard.... Like blow a belt apart and bend a blade hard.

JMO, keep the threads clean, no anti seize, etc.

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[doc724 925]

I had a similar problem.  I don't have an impact wrench but I put a torque wrench on the nut and could not loosen the nut with over 125 ft lbs of torque.  Sprayed it with Kroil, still no luck.  Finally took a MAP gas torch to the nut for 60 seconds.  That did it.  I had to do this for all three blades.  I don't know what the PO had used to put these blades on, but never in the 36 years since I have owned WH tractors have it had to resort to this!

[can whlvr 994]

ive had to cut them off because of stripped nuts

[boovuc 1,090]

For ones that won't budge, I will put an BIG old pipe wrench on the spindle cup and lock it against the deck so the spindle shaft doesn't move then just get my biggest socket wrench and it give it a jerk.

I have an impact gun but will only use it when the pipe wrench/BIG socket wrench trick doesn't work. Maybe once in 10 years.

[shorts 182]

I usually try to use a wood block to lock the blade to the housing and then a socket and breaker bar to remove the nut. If you are going to put anything on the threads when you reassemble tie spindles use blue locktite, it will prevent corrosion on the threads, aid in preventing the blades from self tightening under load or the shock of hitting something, and can be easily softened up for removal by warming the nut with a propane torch.

[tarcoleo 119]

I've learned my lesson; after finally getting the nuts off a long-neglected

48" deck with a borrowed impact wrench, I put the sharpened blades

back with Permatex anti-seize lubricant applied to the nuts.  As a result,

I can now change blades seasonally by jacking the front of the tractor and

easily loosening the nuts without having to drop the deck.

Edited May 12, 2014 by tarcoleo

[Racinbob 11,947]

An impact wrench works great but I now use two wrenches. I picked up a 18" Reese hitch wrench (1 1/8" x 1 1/2")  that I use on the nut. I then picked a 16" 1 1/8" combo wrench and had the open end milled down so it will slip between the blade and spindle grabbing the flats there. No twisting on the spindle and no skinned knuckles when the 2x4 that was holding the blade slips out. But not all spindles have this arrangement.