New wheel 23 #1 Posted April 15, 2014 Got the 520h back together and running. Did most of the prep work on hood and seat deck. They are with my body man. Decided to work on the deck. Deck hasn't been used in years but was told it was stored in a shed. The spindle bolts are rust welded fast to the plate. I soaked good from both sides with wd40. Got all 4 out of left side, 3 out of right side 1 out of the center. Bolt heads are deteriated tried 13 and 14 mm The one on the right I cut the bolt head off. Any other options? Can I replace with stainless hardware? Going into aluminum? What funky washers are used on the bar in the middle? By the way the idler pulley was flopping around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #2 Posted April 15, 2014 the funky washers are special available from toro. i don't see a problem with stainless bolts but never-seize should be your friend. the grass corrodes the steel bolts. probably why it wasn't used for a while toro used thread-lock on the bolts which helps to prevent goulding of bolts to the housing eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #3 Posted April 15, 2014 Never use aluminum next to steel. From a corrosion standpoint, aluminum is sacrificial to steel (iron). If you use aluminum hardware, it will be gone quickly. Stainless is the way to go. I have been using loctite blue on the bolts. While never seize will prevent galling I do not think is has any vibration resisting qualities. Never seize for spindle and pulleys is a must. The idler pulley can flop around if the plastic washers under the idler bar are worn or because the idler pulley bearings are shot. I have rebuilt/refurbished 4 mower decks in the last year. After all the effort you put in taking them apart, it is worth spending the $ to put it together right so it will last another 20 years. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
New wheel 23 #4 Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks for the info. I used a chisel at the base of the bolts heads just to break the rust free. Pounded a 6 pt 13 mm socket on the bolt heads and got them all out. I will be replacing with stainless bolts. How about a stainless flat wager under the bolt head? By the way the plastic washers were all broken up why plastic anyway? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOWTIE 226 #5 Posted April 16, 2014 THE BLACK WASHERS ARE NYLON, THE IDLER BAR NEEDS TO SLIDE WITH THE HEAVY DUTY TENIONER SPRING. I USE NYLON WASHER FROM THE LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. 4 -1/8" X 1 1/4"id X 3/8"id AND 4- 1/8" X 5/8"id X 3/8"id AND DOUBLE THEM UP. ALL FOR 3-4 BUCKS. JUST MAKE SURE ADJUST THE TENSION CORRECT. I HAVE DONE THIS YEARS AND THEY LAST BOWTIE. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
