Theroundhousernr 589 #26 Posted March 23, 2014 Thats great Martin. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #27 Posted March 23, 2014 the oil filter air seals were not used on the 88 or 89 model 520 can't remember what year they started using them , somewhere between 90 and 92 i believe eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 4,984 #28 Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Is there a reason they cannot be added to the earlier models ? Thanks, Cleat Edited March 23, 2014 by cleat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #29 Posted March 23, 2014 I'm thinking they just weren't used on the earlier models. Something they added down the road but i could be wrong... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #30 Posted March 23, 2014 yea wheel horse just didn't offer them on the 88 or 89 and then added them on the later models eric j ps i put them on all of my onans Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #31 Posted March 24, 2014 So I got home tonight and fired up the 520 to run it some..... and maybe just to play a little I only ran it for a few minutes yesterday because of my nieces Birthday party. Today it ran much better. No more miss at all. It was missing and would puff a little ploom of smoke when it would hiccup. It must of been the old gas. I drained the fuel and put non ethanol gas in it yesterday. It must have worked its way through. Now shes purrs. The planets must have lined up in a row today. My girlfriend said can I drive..... "me" ofcoarse you can.... "her" I dont like this leaver to make it go, I want a gas pedal. Do they make a tractor like that? ..... "me" Well its funny you say that .... There is a kit you can buy just for that, its only $200. lol Its really hard not to get some seat time on it but I must be patient I guess and pull the heads and adjust the valves. Thanks again guys. Great group here. I am a member of other forums and it can get pretty high school. Kyle 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackhammer 544 #32 Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Kyle your a lucky man.. Great buy - Good for you Edited March 24, 2014 by jackhammer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #33 Posted March 28, 2014 I have been reading through my operators manual and noticed something strange compared to the info I have read here and the tractors (520H/520HC) I have seen. According to this original manual , it seems as though both the HC and H models had the standard array of gauges for my year 520. However, It is said that the HC has the idiot/warning lights and the H model did not have these. Written in marker from the OP on the cover says 520H ( with HC Inst. panel). Which I am guessing this is what the dealer told him was unqiue about this model.... Everything I have been reading online states the opposite. That the HC was toned down on the luxuries as far as gauges / warning lights and the H was fully loaded. It also seems as though lots of these 520s have different insturment panel arrangements from the same year. Was this a dealer option you could order or opt out of if you didnt want some of this stuff to say a few bucks? Or was this manual printed pre production runs and they changed there minds? Or maybe its a miss print and the dealer used this as a selling perk? What do you guys think?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #34 Posted March 28, 2014 Sent from my Event using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #35 Posted March 28, 2014 Very nice tractor! I've got a similar one too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487 #36 Posted March 28, 2014 I dont know what to think on that brochure stuff. maybe they used the same brochures for a few years? Imho, maybe only very minor stuff changed here and there, move a light, change a decal. you know, most of the heart of the tractor stayed the same. Why print a new book? Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,814 #37 Posted March 28, 2014 The one I'm working on, 1988 520H, has the warning light panel. This only adds to the wire harness that's already a nightmare of safety switches, temp sensors, pressure sensors, connectors, solenoids, and fuse blocks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,814 #38 Posted March 29, 2014 Is there a reason they cannot be added to the earlier models ? Thanks, Cleat I added one to my 1988 520H . I think it was about $4 from Onanparts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #39 Posted April 30, 2014 Just thought I would follow up a little on this post. If you guys remember , I bought this machine with major oil leaks. Fixed them but have not had the time to do a decarb. I went down to the owner to pick up a mickey moused short frame plow that had been extended , hub caps and a few other bits and pieces he had not had a chance to dig out. Talked to him a little and he said about 20 hours ago the motor had been torn down by the dealer when he had running issues. It was missing and firing on one cylinder. They wanted to check the valve seats before sinking money in other parts. They said everything looked good on valve seats and things where cleaned up , then put back together. It ended up being dirty carb and coil. They also put a new plug wire on the rear cylinder. Why only one I dont know....?? Again , mickey mouse. I have no reason to not beleive him because there is surely a new coil installed and plug wire. Dont get me wrong it was well cared for. I think the main reason they got rid of it , instead of fixing is because it was over the owners head and he didnt want to sink more money in labor. He flat out said it was a good excuse to buy a zero turn. SO ,that being said I have been running it and using it lately. She runs like a top. Fires before you can let go of the key. The bearing plate leak has been dry as can be. Also, a little tip for the 520H owners I never thought of. I replaced the RR the other day because mine had failed. Once I got it off , you could see it had been real hot and the circuit had separted from the heat sink..... Anyway , the tip is that you can see right down in on the rear cylinder and all around the oil filter housing. This was perfect because I could see that also was dry as a fart and my leak was really just the wrong filter installed by the PO. Great way to check in on the rear cylinder for clogs around the fins or to blow out clippings. Only one bolt and three wires. So I am thinking some nice summer evening I will pull the intake and adjust valves just to be safe and let the heads alone. Seems like it has already been done. The owner has no reason to lie to me , I already own it. Only thing could be is if the dealer lied to him. What do you guys think??? I have also been hitting the polishing wheel and some compound. It is really coming out nice. I think I am going to order a new set of decals for it and paint the rims white like Horsefixer did. That really looks neat on these 300,400,and 500 series. I am not much of a silver guy anyway. There is a few little rust spots on the fender ranging from the size of a dime to a pencil eraser. It will always be indoors except for winter when the blower goes on. Is there anyway to prevent chipping and more rust from forming??? I think it would be cool to leave this one original. I will post some pictures from my phone in the next post.. Thanks Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #40 Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) Sent from my Event using Tapatalk The fender shows the before and after. It had a dull faded pink color to it under the seat. I want to remove the fender to do it right. Also I forgot about the seat spring damage. So anyone do anything to help preserve this paint or just keep doing what I am doing now with polish every once in awhile? Edited April 30, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrader 433 #41 Posted April 30, 2014 Later model 520's use a rectangular rubber bumper instead of the springs under the seat. They are much gentler on the paint than the springs. Less squeeking, too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 4,984 #42 Posted April 30, 2014 Since I do not have the seat switches any more, I just removed the coil springs and just left the rubber bumpers. Less squeaks, seat seems more stable, and tractor is easier to mount, demount. I also hope this will be easier on the paint. Cleat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,814 #43 Posted April 30, 2014 The paint is really looking good Kyle. I wish I could have saved mine, but it had too much rust and body damage. I got the hood and seat pan pretty straight and will do the rattle can thing. Great idea ....... using the RR hole for inspection of the rear cylinder area. I may also take the springs off my seat Cleat. I have allready taken the slider off and am putting 2" blocks under the fender pan to get more clearance for the tire chains. This will get the seat back down to the correct elevation relative to the steering wheel and floor boards. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
REDOFCOURSE 21 #44 Posted May 1, 2014 I have 4 520Hs. Didn't like what the seat springs were doing to the paint, especially the 2 that I restored. I found some rubber caps for 2" pipe at Menards in the plumbing section. (not sure of size). They slip over the ends of the springs and stay put. Solved the problem for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
