New wheel 23 #26 Posted March 17, 2014 You are right. I'm down on Good Road past Clearview elementary. Got my 1988 pretty much put back together. Mine wasn't quite that dirty. Has 857 hours on it. We will have to hook up and share notes 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motox25 36 #27 Posted March 17, 2014 I don't think I would remove the exhaust coverings. They seem to keep the exhaust heat isolated from the coil and wiring. I'm planning on cutting my belt guard flush with the black panel to allow full unrestricted airflow from the rear cylinder. It's crazy the amount of air that comes off that thing even at idle and the belt guard seems to catch every bit of it. I've heard some members having great success in cutting holes in their panels as well. There is also a gasket that seals the engine oil filter around the shroud, if yours is missing that seal it can be replaced for cheap. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #28 Posted March 18, 2014 Well, the cold and snow kept me in the heated shop today, so I got into the Onan a little further. The inside actually looks cleaner than the outside. I think GMAN was right....all that oil was coming from the oil filter mount bracket. When I got the back bottom tin off, It was packed tight with oil up into the cooling fins. The carbon pretty much brushed off the head and cyl. The manifold looks good...no sign of any leakage at the split. I printed out the manuals and they refer to the cyls as RH and LH on the head bol torqueing sequence.. the patterns are different. Am I correct in assuming they use a JD or CUB reference so the right hand cyl will be the front cyl on the WH ? BTY the meter shows 438 hours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #29 Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Ed, on my p216 the cylinders are marked on the top of the engine. look in the middle of the engine at the hump and also between or around the intake/exhaust ports. numbers are cast into the block. can't see by your pic, but look closely they should be there. Edited March 18, 2014 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #30 Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 18, 2014 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #31 Posted March 18, 2014 Found it Martin....my 220 has the #1 on the front cyl and #2 on the rear...no RH mark like your 216. I realized I could also verify by the spark plug location on the manuals picture of the heads.. My assumption on JD , Cub reference was incorrect. The RH,LH is viewed looking from the flywheel side . i.e. #1 LH is front cyl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #32 Posted March 20, 2014 OK, I started the reassembly of the Onan and realized I failed to mark the plug wires at the coil. Any one have a pic showing the coil and plug wires to help out this dummy ? The first guy with the answer gets a free kick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie 98 #33 Posted March 20, 2014 looking over blower housing - left terminal lead goes to front cyl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie 98 #34 Posted March 20, 2014 same on the 416 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #35 Posted March 20, 2014 Does not matter at all which one goes where, they both fire at the same time. More important is how you hook up the power, ignition trigger and condenser wires Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #36 Posted March 20, 2014 Ignition trigger neg (black) goes all by itself on the neg side, power(yellow), ignition trigger pos (red) and condenser all to the positive. Do not ever hook the neg trigger to a power source. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GMan 82 #37 Posted March 20, 2014 Ed, I'm late to the table on your last problem but Martin is spot on with both of his responses................By the way that engine looks to exceptionally clean inside...........Must have had some recent work applied to it........................Gary Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #38 Posted March 20, 2014 Well, Aussie came back first with the pic, so he gets the free kick, but I am assuming he won't be at the "BIG SHOW" to collect. But Aussie, and If you ever cross the pond, look me up. Thanks Martin, Guess My subconscious told me the coil wire didn't matter....yaeh right. I did mark the trigger and condenser wires, but thanks for the info.. I will do the discount dubble check . GMAN, The PO says he bought it new and says the engine was never apart , But who knows ? The meter shows 438 hrs, but I didn't check if it was working before I tore it down. Looking at the tin on the seat pan and hood , I would guess It had a lot more hours.....But I know the PO's daughter mowed with it for several years, so that may explain the body damage..OOPS....there I go again....sorry fems. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie 98 #39 Posted March 21, 2014 I,m glad you got it sorted Ed. You are right - not much chance of a kickin from me in the foreseeable future, although the big show will be very high on my agenda if I do get back over there one day. I was lying in bed last night (thinkin, when I should'a been sleepin - as you do) and realised that the coil terminals weren't visible in either photo. I wasn't sure if the coil could be rotated 180 degrees, but will add this image for anyone trying to make sense of this part of the thread in 5 years time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #40 Posted March 23, 2014 Added a few vent holes to help cool the rear cylinder. May also be my heater when I get the cab built. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackhammer 544 #41 Posted March 23, 2014 Id be interested to see how this does ... Keep us posted on it please 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #42 Posted March 24, 2014 just watch out for "hot foot" if you install foot controls 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #43 Posted March 25, 2014 SHES ALIVE .. Had her running today for a short time before the newly painted muffler smoked me out. Gotta get her outside tomorrow for a test run and carb tune. New oil and filter, decarbed combustion chamber , valves cleaned and set, new plugs, new oil drain pipe, new gasket under oil filter base, ,cleaned carb, and removed around on gallon of gunk from tins and cooling fins. Still needs some wiring clean up including a new switch and steering tightening. Might try to look under the brown rusty hub caps to see if there is any chrome left. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #44 Posted March 25, 2014 Thats great. Now we are both in the 520 club lol. I want to vent my belt cover also but mine looks like brand new and I hate to do it. I might snag a used one online. I am thinking about cutting one large hole and finding a large louvered cover made out of plactic to cover the hole. Glad this is working out for you! Hope it brings you a many more hours to come. Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #45 Posted March 27, 2014 Still cold and windy here, so I stayed inside and did some more clean up. Got some of the rust off the moonies. All this duff was in the hydro. Put on a better seat. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #46 Posted March 28, 2014 Did you have no choice but to use a wire wheel on the hub caps? I have to clean mine up to but I was hoping not to use such an aggressive method. I was going to try the aluminum foil and coke method. Maybe steel wool if I had to. Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #47 Posted March 28, 2014 Whats the aluminum foil and Coke method ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #48 Posted March 28, 2014 (edited) Well, not only does coke taste good and eat the enamel off your teeth. The phosphoric acid in coke also eats right through rust. Makes you think twice about drinking that stuff lol. I used to use a the finest grade steel wool when doing this but apparently tin foil does a great job at scrubbing also and does'nt scratch the chrome. I have not tried the tin foil yet. I have only read about it. They also make chrome cleaning products you can by at auto parts stores but the coke has also worked well for me. Soak the parts for stubborn stuff. Just filter it and drink after your done..... Edited March 28, 2014 by Theroundhousernr 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motox25 36 #49 Posted March 28, 2014 I've had great success with SOS pads, using water throughout the process. My hub caps were horrible and I only had a couple of minor scratches when I finished but I'm betting they were scratched before. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,809 #50 Posted March 29, 2014 Mine were really pitted deep.... not sure coke or brillo would have worked, but I'll try it on the next set. I did get the steering straightened out. I loosened the bearing block and was able to separate the gears enough to move it two teeth to put the wheel in the correct position. Also added shim under the cotter pin in the horizontal steering shaft to tighten the gear engagement. Only have about one inch of play in the steering wheel now and most of that is in the tie rods. It was warm here so I had her running outside for about an hour. I was still not able to get the surging out. I have to use 1/4 choke at idle and 1/2 choke at full throttle to keep here from surging. I set the governor and carb. by the book and tried several different combos on the linkage with not much change. Next step... pull the carb apart and recheck it. Any other ideas ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
