squonk 42,825 #26 Posted March 10, 2014 It came to in pieces, disassembled by the PO. Seemed to me pretty straight forward to reassemble...no problems there. Checked the parts diagram in the gen set manual, seems like it went back together correctly. Rebuilt my other Fairbanks Morse recoil this past summer using a $2 Tecumseh replacement recoil spring from Ebay...worked like a charm. Seems to me like something with similar ends on it would work well in this application too. I'm thinking two dollars...I'll roll the dice, and take another chance. Cute Jenny Craig! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,147 #27 Posted March 10, 2014 This one ought to be worth a buck or three: 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #28 Posted March 11, 2014 the chrome costs more than the recoil did Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #29 Posted March 13, 2014 Thanks for moving this guys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 665 #30 Posted March 13, 2014 This one ought to be worth a buck or three: OMG TT I need to wipe the drool off my laptop.... That thing is spectacular!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,166 #31 Posted March 18, 2014 Is there one specific weak point that keeps repeatedly breaking Ken...ie; cable, spring, handle? What parts should I keep on hand? Mine came apart twice Craig. The biggest thing with these recoils is you need to give them a nice and steady easy pull. Let the recoil catch, and then pull. NO YANKIN. You will also want your engine to be in perfect tune so its starts on ONE pull. If your engine is a hard starter ya better take care of that.. The K90 on my RJ 58 started on one pull after sitting all winter a few weeks ago... The handle on mine broke because the rubber was hard.. At least I think that is why.. I replaced the handle on mine with a 1950's Mercury outboard handle that I had laying around until I can find a new cable and handle that I can afford. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #32 Posted March 18, 2014 I know Glen Pettit offer the replacement Schnacke recoil handles, but I don't see them on his site... anyone seen/used one of his yet? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,825 #33 Posted March 18, 2014 How fast will that recoil go? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KATO 115 #34 Posted March 18, 2014 Just fast enough to empty your wallet 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #35 Posted March 18, 2014 Here's a pict I got today from Glen Pettit... showing the two variations of the Schnacke handles he offers. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,579 #36 Posted March 18, 2014 I know Glen Pettit offer the replacement Schnacke recoil handles, but I don't see them on his site... anyone seen/used one of his yet? I have used 4 of them on my recoils now...all worked well. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #37 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Craig: I bought a K91 motor in Peoria last week (did not buy the 701 he had for sale) and I am cleaning it up and have a question. The catch mechanism that rests at the back of the sheave that the recoil spring goes on top of (and then covered by a housing) seems to be very tight and I am not sure how to remove this to clean some debris and light rust. I thought this mechanism was suppose to turn in the sheave. I have a good spring, recoil etc. but not sure the catch mechanism is correct. Mine has the bid hex nut that goes on the flywheel like yours in the 2014 posting you did on your Schancke recoils ! Let me know if you get a chance. Hope all is well with you and yours. I am going to look at some more 701's on Sunday. Edited January 25, 2015 by Lane Ranger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #38 Posted January 25, 2015 Pictured here are both sides of the recoil spring/pawl retainer Lane... the recoil spring is in the cup under the hex nut in the first pict. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #39 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Ok and when you take top off (like in first photo) with lock nut, washer , housing and spring -how do you get the prawl/catch mechanism out after taking off the three clips from the three studs? Or does it not come off or out of the sheave? Edited January 25, 2015 by Lane Ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #40 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) If I remember correctly, there should be a screw, clip, nut, something under the recoil spring. I could be wrong though...having been awhile since I installed a the new spring...apprehensive about going back in there now it's back together. EDIT...Other thing I was thinking Lane... you could clean up that whole assembly as one unit... if you have an E-tank set up. Edited January 25, 2015 by AMC RULES 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #41 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Craig: I think the recoil you have and I have are more like this mechanism in this Clinton/Schnacke Recoil drawing: schnacke drawing Catch mechanism looks like this under the sheave : This is what I am looking at on top of sheave with the catch mechanism still attached Top view -spring attaches around center and has a cover over it. Bottom view with three prawl catch mechanism I sure don't want you to take yours apart I just though you might recall how to get this off or out of the sheave if you ever had it taken out! Edited January 25, 2015 by Lane Ranger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #42 Posted January 25, 2015 I'm thinking...what you've shown here, is as far as I had mine apart also Lane. Sorry I can't help you more...dclarke...Denny has some experience working on these too. Maybe try sending a PM to him also? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #43 Posted January 25, 2015 I am ahead of you on that with Denny ! I sent him a note. Thanks for this I will let you know what I find out. I think the catch mechanism is suppose to slip out the sleeve on the sheave! I don't think it is threaded. But when you have the catch mechanism (like in your 4th photo from the top in top posting) it turns freely -correct? Mine does not and I think it is rusted or frozen up somehow with rust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #44 Posted January 25, 2015 Yes it turns freely Lane...but that is only like...1/4 turn left or right...dogs engaged or released. E-tank in a small 5gal pail would probably free up the whole thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #45 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Ok that's what I thought but mine does not! I tried some Evapo-Rust for about three days. Did ok other than this part! Thanks Craig! Craig: FYI Denny has not had his apart as far as I have yet either ! I hope he never has too. I learned this from the guy selling Schnacke recoil parts. The Schnacke has a oil hole in the center of the recoil cam axle piece (piece with the three prawls on it (mine recoil has the prawls not the serrated link version). That hole needs to have oil shot down inside every little bit to keep the cam plate axle moving and loose from the first piece that it rides in above the cam plate. The second piece is the bigger sheave plate that the bottom of the recoil spring rides on and grips to the axle on a cutout in the center. A cup like piece goes over that with the rest of the spring when coiled up. My problem is that the cam plate mechanism is stuck on the second piece from some rust from sitting and perhaps not be lubed much too! I am goes to soak this mechanism for another week and see if I can loosen it up! Other than that the recoil is in great shape. You may want to make sure a drop or two of oil (I would use machine oil -I have a real small pen type applicator that can go inside) is placed down in mechanism. There is a hole in the axle where the lubricant comes out and rides between the top sheave that the recoil spring rests on and the piece above the cam plate which makes that 1/4 turn you mentioned! Edited January 25, 2015 by Lane Ranger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,153 #46 Posted January 25, 2015 Roger that, will do Lane. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #47 Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) Apparently Walter H. Schancke of Evansville, Indiana received several patents from 1950 thru 1961 or 62 for making Schancke Recoils. The three prawl is a later design to the serrated teeth recoil system. The second patent drawing is a very good one! http://www.google.co...tents/US2868186 http://www.google.com.na/patents/US2868186 Edited January 26, 2015 by Lane Ranger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #48 Posted January 26, 2015 The first Walter H. Schancke recoil patent http://www.google.co...tents/US2604882 Hopefully some of this Schnacke Recoil information will help other Red Square members ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #49 Posted January 26, 2015 One more Schnacke Recoil Drawing and parts list from an Old Lauson (Tecumseh) Outboard Motor manual. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,156 #50 Posted December 14, 2016 Here are some more Schanacke recoil documents I found and wanted to post with this thread. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
