mrc 727 #26 Posted January 16, 2014 hi rich, on my wheelhorse tractors the lift cable tube bolts on top of the unidrive. regards mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #27 Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) hi men, as promised here are some pics that my younger friend took with his phone. technology is amazing. the carnage hurts! regards mike in mass. Edited January 16, 2014 by mrc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #28 Posted January 16, 2014 You might want to rethink this a bit. Making the transmission mounting plate on the frame thicker will not give you the improvements you seek. The weak points in the assembly is the weld where the frame rails are attached to the mounting plate. Wheel horse addressed this by adding gussets to the frame (the angle pieces which go from the bottom of the mounting plate back to the frame rails). These gussets provide the stiffness to withstand the torque on the mounting plate from the transaxle, as well as provide mounting locations for the clutch rod and the lift bar. A thicker mounting plate does very little for torque stiffness. You can do what ever is easiest for you, but if you are really looking to make the whole assembly stronger, make bigger gussets and weld them on. Just my 2 cents. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 473 #29 Posted January 16, 2014 hi rich, on my wheelhorse tractors the lift cable tube bolts on top of the unidrive. regards mike That's true ,but the hole is for the tube to go thru. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,164 #30 Posted January 16, 2014 IMG_20140116_114206.jpgIMG_20140116_114237.jpgIMG_20140116_114255.jpgIMG_20140116_113731.jpg hi men, as promised here are some pics that my younger friend took with his phone. technology is amazing. the carnage hurts! regards mike in mass. Ouch!! Mcmaster has grade 9 bolts and locking nuts that i have been using in differentials lately Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #31 Posted January 17, 2014 hi men, i had thought about adding to the gussets doc724. i'll look into those grade 9 bolts paul. this machine is a 1985. i bought it used in 1995. i never did anything to the tranny except change oil. my question is, was someone inside the tranny between 1985 and 1995? i ask because there are lockwashers under the HEADS of the differential bolts (which seems a little odd to me) also as you can see in the pics where the metal locknuts are there is a relief cut in the differential. inside the relief cut are marks from what looks like a serrated shouldered nut. so my question is based on the pics is this normal factory assembly looking stuff ??? thanks mike in mass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,235 #32 Posted January 17, 2014 You would not think anyone would be in a trans in the first 10 years, but who knows. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racinfool40 202 #33 Posted January 17, 2014 Every 8-pinion differential I have pulled,,Being in an 8-speed or a hydro the locking nuts have been on the bolt side and not the nut side...if you needs parts to fix I have them on hand... Mike. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,235 #34 Posted January 17, 2014 About time you got in here Mike...I figured you would know the answer to that question. Do you believe the picture above of that bolt??? Un-real... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #35 Posted January 17, 2014 X2 on the fifth hole in the mounting plate being for the lift cable on the hydro tractors. The "serrations" on the differential end cap are probably chatter marks from the tool used to spot-face the "pad" where the nut seats. The object of the game is keeping the through-bolts tight. High-quality locknuts and thread locker are your friends. Here's what happened to a friend's '86 417-8 tranz when a through-bolt decided to pass under the ring gear: 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #36 Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) hi men, rich(312hydro): i'm an 8 speed guy with little to no hdro experience so thank you for enlightening me. mike(racinfool40) i will definitely contact you for some gears for my damaged unidrive. it may be awhile though as i plan to swap in my spare tranny and rebuild when the weather is better. i can't see scraping it when rebuilding is possibe. i was busy this weekend preparing for a medical procedure . best regards mike in mass. Edited January 20, 2014 by mrc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #37 Posted January 22, 2014 what's the bottom hole for in the triangular shaped gusset on the frame where the tranny bolts to ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,235 #38 Posted January 22, 2014 How about a picture...I have no idea...guess, maybe where one of the springs go?? If it is on the left side...could be for the brake spring.??? OH OH...I have the feeling that TT is going to make me learn something again... Thanks TT. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #39 Posted January 22, 2014 what's the bottom hole for in the triangular shaped gusset on the frame where the tranny bolts to ? The rear mounting "yoke" on the WH sickle bar mowers, the early PTO driven tiller drive belt bracket, and the belt-driven lawn vac all used those holes. They don't see much use on the newer tractors. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #40 Posted February 4, 2014 Hi men here r some pic of 1/4" tranny mount and 1/8" gussets and a piece of angle iron for extra strength connecting the gussets 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #41 Posted February 5, 2014 It took me a while to get oriented to what I was seeing in the pix. I did not expect to see the gussets ground flush. They look pretty beefy-no flexing there. It must be nice to have welding experience. What is that silverish looking bar that runs parallel to the pipe that is supported by the jack stands? (pix #4 on the right) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #42 Posted February 6, 2014 hi don, the silverish bar is the piece of angle iron tying the bottom of the 2 added gussets together. you can also see the angle iron in pic 1 and 5. the light is just reflecting differently on the pic in question. i bought my hobart 140 welder about 5 years ago. i have been self learning ever since. its a great machine. was made in USA, biggest welder to run on regular 110 volt home power and can weld up to 1/4 inch thick metal. it also came with the regulator to use shielding gas. the shielding gas makes a huge difference in the quality of the welds. i beveled the original gussets and the added gussets where they meet. then clamped together and welded. then ground down as best i could. they are welded on the back (inside) as well. best regards mike in mass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 727 #43 Posted March 3, 2014 hi men, well i'm finally trying to bolt up my spare unidrive to my reinforced frame. my old tranny has 4 BLIND holes where the tranny bolts up.. my spare has 2 BLIND holes and 2 threaded clearance holes . i would think gear oil will weep/leak from these 2 thru holes. its obviously not pipe thread. 3/8X16 i believe. should i use silicone??? what do you guys do? and is this common? thanks mike in mass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
