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SethL1984

M14 Bogging/stuttering.

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SethL1984

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Should be up in a few mins.

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Fordiesel69

Sounds very smooth, however if anything it sounds like the gov is a little slower than normal.  I can hear your exhaust note indicate it is working, but just a little too slow.  You will need to download a magnum repair manual from the kohler website and figure out which spring holes make it more sensitive.

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Fordiesel69

I listened to this at home again with some better speakers, and although engine is smooth, I can hear a little area of the RPM were it is stuttering.  With hood open you can watch the governor arm to see if when a load is applied if it moves instantly.  If it moves instantlybut engine stumbles, adjust carburetor.  If the arms moves AFTER the load is fully applied that there are several holes on the gov arm, and also the cable arm which can be used to adjust the sensitivity.  If memory serves me the spring holes on the cable arm adjusts the RPM, and the one on the gov arm adjusts the sensitvity.

 

 

Manual here:

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2203_a.pdf

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SethL1984

Anyone happen to remember where the complete Walbro factory settings instructions are found? I remember seeing it once someplace around here. It gave all the factory needle settings...

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Fordiesel69

In that manual there is a carb section.

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SethL1984

Am I missing something? Because it says that the adjustments are for "Kohler built carbs".

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Fordiesel69

Some may say kohler but they are built by walbro.

 

From memory  the main is 1-1/2 out.  Idle is 1 to 1-1/4 initial.  Then fine tune.

 

I used to be able to hear an engine over a remote or corded phone and be able to talk someone thru adjusting a carb.  With todays crapola cell phones, you can never hear the engine well enough.

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SethL1984

***UPDATE***

 

 

Much overdue! 

 

So after resetting the carb things seem to run ok! I took some time and used my ears to tune what I know to be familiar. Idles lower, much larger power band, smoother power band, AND.... NO BOGGING!! I've had it under load, "popped" the clutch and just throws me back into the seat! Thanks so much for the help gents!! 

 

 

I do have one last question...

 

the spring seems just a little  too long, I've tried moving it several times to compensate, but yea...

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Fordiesel69

The spring looks long but unless the coil part has gaps, it should be fine.  Over time they will wear and your max RPM may fall.  I would rather have it a touch under than over.  Unless built up, these are 4k rpm as an absolute max.  And they are not as durable even at that. 

 

Setting the carb is so hard in writing.

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SethL1984

Welp, here we are again...

 

I'm finding that after about 20 minutes of run time the tractor stalls, and dies. If I grab the choke it seems to come back for a minute or two, then dies...

 

Any thoughts gents?

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Fordiesel69

Fuel pump is starting to fail, or the vent on the gas cap is not working.  Keep it loose for a bit and see if it does it again.

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SethL1984

Greeeaaaaatttt..........

 

Venting is fine.

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SethL1984

So, let's just say,  I replaced the fuel pump and its still starting to die after 30-45 mins....

 

Any thoughts?

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Fordiesel69

If the choke buys you some time, then you still have a fuel delivery problem.

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Fordiesel69

There is a fuel shutoff on the bottom of the tank, and it pulls out, the screen could be getting clogged up.  Another thing that is very rare, is the carb body can get too hot, and cause a symptom like this.  Very rare, but I have read about it.

 

The magneto will do this but typically the choke will but buy you any extra time. 

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SethL1984

Thanks Ford, I'll check the screen. The tank is getting low on fuel so I may just run it out, clean the screen, and run all new line as well. 

 

Thanks for the input.

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SethL1984

 
You were right...
 
 
CLOGGED!! 

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Fordiesel69

Great news.  Get a new one, there will be a screen that sticks out.  That way you can skip an aftermarket filter that will slow the flow.

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