Don1977 604 #1 Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) My C-120 has got to chattering when the PTO is disengaged. Pulled the engagement lever and found the bushings lose on the shaft and lose in the hood stand. Checked the size in the hood stand some where between 9/16" and 5/8". Found some bushings at Tractor Supply 1/2" ID and 5/8" OD x 1 1/8" long. Sanded down the shaft so the bushing would slide on. Then sawed the bushing in half and sanded the ends. Had a short piece of 1/2" wood dowel in the bench that fit tight in the bushing. Drilled out the holes on the hood stand and tapped the bushings in. Put a couple drop of oil in the bushings and worked the shaft back in place. Had to hit it a couple of time with a wooden hammer to get it back in place. Had to use a 1/2" socket to adjust the clip side to get the snap ring on. Pulled the clutch idler rod and sanded it to get the bush on it, but that's a job for next year. HAPPY NEW YEAR! Edited January 1, 2014 by Don1977 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,567 #2 Posted January 1, 2014 Good redo and education item Don! Thanks for posting this! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazm 412 #3 Posted January 1, 2014 Good info , Thanks for sharing Chasm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #4 Posted January 8, 2014 Did something similar, as I found a degree of flex in the Hoodstand sides, and I also wanted positive pressure. I was able to make the new bushes to fit, but I thought I'd experiment by fitting a S/S spacer tube in between the H/Stand sides. Eliminates the panel flex completely and the tube contains adequate grease. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #5 Posted January 8, 2014 I found after fitting the bushings that I had to loosen the trunnion 3 rounds before I could engage the PTO. I hadn't noticed any movement of the hood stand on my 1977. I did weld up a few cracks in the brackets beside the shift levers when I painted. I also found two holes in the frame and none at the back of that bracket. Drilled a the holes and added the bolts. I also got around to the clutch idler rod after the first of the year. Drilled it out to 5/8" and added the bushings. Had more trouble getting the bushings in, Cracked one bushing on the right side but it in and tight so I'll leave it. I won't have the rattling when the PTO is not engaged or when I push in the clutch. I was kind of surprised the the clutch shaft didn't have any bushings. Looks like there may be one but the hole in the transmission bracket is just larger. It's dirty the last job was vacuum leafs still have some left at the farm if I get any dry weather that's not to cold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #6 Posted January 8, 2014 Like the Clutch Idler remedy . I also have a niggling rattle around that area. I need to sort that on one of mine as it's shaft is badly worn where it passes through the Frame. A real remote area that has seen no lubrication in it's previous life. I'll probably have to cut the old shaft to get it off and make a new one. I also found a Service bulletin that recommends enlarging the Spirol Pin Hole size from 1/8" to 5/32" on the Clutch Rod Pivot Arm and shaft connection, so I'll do that at the same time. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites