Kohler K301 break-in

[JamesC-120 204]

How do you guys recommend breaking in a freshly rebuilt Kohler K301?

 

Thanks

[WH nut 553]

Any motor I overhaul I run easy to make adjustment, then I open them up and run them like I intend to run them. I do an oil change after about an hour run time though. Them put them to work. This is what I do small engine or a V8

[shorts 182]

stat with the Kohler manual recommendations, but generally speaking start up and run the first 1/2 hr at 1500/2000 to break in the cam and lifters, do not idle during the initial run in then check the timing and governor for proper adjustment, set the low idle, change the oil and put it to work.

Wisconsin engines used to recommend start it, check the timing and governor settings look for leaks and then run against the governor @ 3600 for 4 hours change the oil and put it to work.

[JamesC-120 204]

Is it better to run it for a longer period of time ran than an hour? A guy named Brain Miller at A-1 miller enterprises recommended that I run it for five hours at full throttle. And I bought all my parts from him and he knows a lot about these kohlers.

[shorts 182]

The 4 or 5 hr 3600 rpm no load break in will not hurt your fresh engine, experience tells me that the current modern piston ring materials and technology don't need as much break in time as the original parts did. I've been in and around the engine testing and development business for 45 + years (dyno) the standard criteria for start up and break in of the majority of race engines is 140F oil temp, start and run at 2500 to 2800 RPM no load for cam and lifter break in, check the oil screens for particles, restart, check the ignition timing at max advance and then run full load power checks as required, most production engines want the cam break in procedure included in their 4 hr break in and then power checks before putting on further test. with the introduction of roller cam technology the cam break in Is not as critical as it is in a flat tappet design.

 

If your engine parts supplier says to go with a 5 hr break in follow his advice, he knows best what the parts he sells like the best and how they going to be happy. His procedure covers the flat tappet cam break in and then allows for an ample cylinder to piston ring wear in polishing period to maximize the engines life. Take into consideration that the cast iron technology that was used when the block was cast is 50= years old and the pioston rings probably have much newer metallurgy and coatings technology.

[Martin 2,133]

don't forget to retorque the head bolts with the engine cold. not sure what the manual says but i always check them after i run the engine for a good hour or two. 

[specialwheelhorse 174]

I go exactly as Kohler recommends.

Check that out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Fordiesel69 270]

Run at near full throttle or plain full, and make sure the engine has varying work loads for a period of 5 hrs.  I like to change my oil at 1 hr, to get any minor metal out.  Then at 5.  I just get nervouse there may be some residual particles missed.

 

The important thing is to make sure the engine is loaded up at different loads.  The cross hatch pattern is very rough initially, and you want to take advantage of that to seat the rings in.  Running unloaded will take longer to do this. 

[JamesC-120 204]

If I ran it for an hour each day for five days would that do the same as all at once for 5 hours?

 

Thanks

[shorts 182]

No, you need to get it up to operating temperature and run it there so the parts can get used to each other and "seat-in" or establish their initial wear patterns