312-8 loses power going uphill

[jimrogowski 0]

Historically,  my 312-8 lawn tractor would spin it's tires (with chains on) if I tried to push too much snow up a small hill on my driveway.   The last 2 years,  I cannot even drive up the hill in the snow even with the snow blade raised and not pushing any snow.  The wheels do not spin....and the tractor seems to be under the same power.   There is no belt slippage(at least no squeeking or noise) yet the tractor just slows to a stop with the engine still running at full speed.   I changed the drivebelt over the summer,  but still get the same thing happening this winter.  Anyone with thoughts?

thanks.

[Tim 97]

is the clutch spring weak?

try putting your toes on the back side of the clutch pedal and pull it

see it that helps

[953 nut 59,871]

   Have you changed out the drive belt, good place to start.   

[jimrogowski 0]

I will try the clutch trick to see if it makes a difference.  I did change the drivebelt this past spring...but get the same results with the new drivebelt.

[WH nut 553]

Dumb question, but did you put the right belt on it

Edited December 21, 2013 by WH nut

[Tim 97]

check out the link

 

Edited December 21, 2013 by Tim

[Sparky-(Admin) 23,139]

Did you get your new belt from a TORO dealer? How did you size it up? Hopefully you didn't measure the one you took off since it sounds like it was stretched.

Mike.......

[wallfish 18,075]

With the manual transmission, it's probably the belt slipping or could be a sheared key somewhere. Remove the belt cover and have someone drive it up to a wall or other solid thing like a tree and run it in gear to reproduce the loss of power to the wheels. JUST BE SAFE! Look at ALL of the pulleys and shafts to find where the problem is, belt, drive pulley, axles and hubs.  

[leeave96 490]

Does your tractor have a spring return or a gas strut on the clutch pedal? If you have the gas strut, it is likely shot. I had a similar situation with my 314-8 years ago and it was the strut. You can retrofit with the spring and you're good to go.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jimrogowski 0]

Thanks for all the hints folks.  I moved the clutch stop so when the clutch is engaged it no longer hits the stop.   i was able to determine that my belt is in fact slipping.  It is slipping around the transmission pulley.  The clutch spring(metal coiled spring) does not feel weak...but could a weak spring cause the belt to slip?  Or do I need to get some belt dressing like we used to put on our cars 25 years ago?

[Tim 97]

from what your describing, I think the belt is too long

[jimrogowski 0]

OK....I did not compare it to the belt I took off...but I did get it at a Wheel Horse dealer by giving him my partnumber of my tractor.  I've used the same deal for 15 years and never had an issue with parts.  I remember it was not cheap too. 

[flyovrcntry 115]

Take the model number from the tractor,look up the belt number and make certain the belt is correct.The number should still be on the belt.Since you got it at a Toro dealer you paid 3 time as much as a farm supply or auto parts store would charge,so make sure its right. If you do a search with the part number from the belt you can get the length that way.Toro does not make belts,they get them from a belt manufacturer that also sells to other dealers.Whe you get a belt just make certain it states that it is a power equipt. belt .

But if you insist on paying more then a Dealer will be glad to accommodate.

[Tim 97]

did you pull the pedal back with your foot?

a weak spring will cause it to slip

[Sparky-(Admin) 23,139]

What part # was the new belt?

Mike...........

[C100 0]

I hope this is your cause as it was mine. There is a roll pin or what Wheelhorse calls it, a "Pin-Spirol." That roll pin broke on the spindle where your clutch spring attaches. It was partially showing, versus being level with the shaft. My tractor would just about move and the belt was loose while engaged and when I depressed the clutch, the travel had increased. For right now, I drove out the old pin, lined everything upend inserted a nut and bolt and I am back in business. I do plan on ordering the exact replacement. If you look at a parts blowup at one of the internet sites, it's part number 933190 

 

Fred with no snow in Massachusetts

 

1990 310-8

[WH nut 553]

Take the model number from the tractor,look up the belt number and make certain the belt is correct.The number should still be on the belt.Since you got it at a Toro dealer you paid 3 time as much as a farm supply or auto parts store would charge,so make sure its right. If you do a search with the part number from the belt you can get the length that way.Toro does not make belts,they get them from a belt manufacturer that also sells to other dealers.Whe you get a belt just make certain it states that it is a power equipt. belt .

But if you insist on paying more then a Dealer will be glad to accommodate.

I have found that OEM belts last 3 times longer than aftermarket

[1978wh 0]

1. Did you check the clutch itself to make sure it is engaging all the way and the clutch facing is not slipping from wear.

[flyovrcntry 115]

 

Take the model number from the tractor,look up the belt number and make certain the belt is correct.The number should still be on the belt.Since you got it at a Toro dealer you paid 3 time as much as a farm supply or auto parts store would charge,so make sure its right. If you do a search with the part number from the belt you can get the length that way.Toro does not make belts,they get them from a belt manufacturer that also sells to other dealers.Whe you get a belt just make certain it states that it is a power equipt. belt .

But if you insist on paying more then a Dealer will be glad to accommodate.

I have found that OEM belts last 3 times longer than aftermarket

 

Uh, OK

[gomer gump 8]

this may sound stupid but if you haven,t figured it out yet possibly check your motor mounting bolts, if their tight or not and if motor is pulled fwd as much as you can get it . then check motor pully alignment with rear pully. if all this is loose and out of alignment going uphill and loosing power could happen . just a thought good luck . from what you,ve described sounds like your wheel hubs and axle shaft key ways and keys are messed up i had an old electro 12 did the same thing going up hill would stop hubs ,keys and key ways both sides all wore out a lot a fun getting those hubs off

[ARK 9]

LOTS OF GOOD INFO, but check the cleanliness of the pulley sheave to belt also, a build up of grease dirt, belt fibres may cause slipping

[jimrogowski 0]

thanks for all the info guys.   The drivebelt that I have on the machine is 93-9808 and looks like it is for newer machines.  My 1989 calls for 93-9809.  Is there a way to find out the specs for the belts to see if they are the same?  The newer belt seems like it has fiber wrapped around it....it's not black like the prior belt.   I have had to put my diagnostics on hold for a few days...but I will check out the pulleys too.  I don't think it's a problem with the "keys" because it will push a good amount of snow on a flat surface.   thanks for all the suggestions. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,454]

Belt chart wiith dimensions on the last pages

 

93-9808 is 5/8" x 82"

93-9809 is 5/8" x 83-1/2" and used on models with twin cylinder engine

 

Garry

[jimrogowski 0]

Thanks Garry.   Double-checking the specs here:

http://www.mowerpartpros.com/p/Toro-Parts?aribrand=TO#/Toro_Consumer/21-12K806%2c_312-8_Garden_Tractor%2c_1989/DRIVE_BELT_AND_PULLEYS/21-12K806-1706-1989/810607R1-07R10092-00043

I see 2 belts listed in the schematic as item #6:  7473 and 93-9809.   My machine is not a twin cylinder,  so 7473 is likely the original belt.   It is listed as 81.95 inches,  and the belt I have on the machine is 82 inches.  So for now,  I think I can rule out the wrong belt.    I will check the shape  of the pulleys next chance I get.   Noone commented on my earlier thought on using some old automotive belt dressing which we used 25 years ago to quiet the belts of our cars when they started squeeking.  Any thougths on whether this would be a good idea?

[leeave96 490]

Thanks Garry.   Double-checking the specs here:

http://www.mowerpartpros.com/p/Toro-Parts?aribrand=TO#/Toro_Consumer/21-12K806%2c_312-8_Garden_Tractor%2c_1989/DRIVE_BELT_AND_PULLEYS/21-12K806-1706-1989/810607R1-07R10092-00043

I see 2 belts listed in the schematic as item #6:  7473 and 93-9809.   My machine is not a twin cylinder,  so 7473 is likely the original belt.   It is listed as 81.95 inches,  and the belt I have on the machine is 82 inches.  So for now,  I think I can rule out the wrong belt.    I will check the shape  of the pulleys next chance I get.   Noone commented on my earlier thought on using some old automotive belt dressing which we used 25 years ago to quiet the belts of our cars when they started squeeking.  Any thougths on whether this would be a good idea?

IMHO - belt dressing won't hurt, but it shouldn't be needed. These belt drive trannys pull like crazy. I think you should keep troubleshooting.

BTW - very nice tractor you got!