JamesC-120 204 #1 Posted December 7, 2013 I have a kohler k301 and it was burning oil and had piston slap and I was wondering if the only way it can be burning oil is through the rings or if it could be coming form the valve shafts not sealing. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #2 Posted December 7, 2013 The answer is yes, oil can be burned through the valve guides. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesC-120 204 #3 Posted December 7, 2013 What is the correct way of fixing them? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #4 Posted December 7, 2013 Remove the valves and have the guides measured at a machine shop. If they are worn, the machine shop can install new ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #5 Posted December 7, 2013 If its got piston slap most of the oil is coming through the rings Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 232 #6 Posted December 8, 2013 Valves will leak a little, and will not usually smoke blue unless idled then throttled up quick. However if you have piston slap, it need to be addressed. If you are lucky to have a STD bore, and not stamping on the piston, you may get lucky buying a .003 over piston and ring set. If you have a machine shop however, it really is worth it to pay and have it bored over to the next size so the cylinder is round again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #7 Posted December 9, 2013 If you can hear the piston slap It's either got a damaged piston or it needs to be bored over and a new piston installed, pull the head and measure the bore if it's out of spec for a standard piston plan on a complete rebuild, bore, hone, new rod, new valve guides, new piston and rings, grind the valves and seats and possibly grind the crank, all new gaskets etc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,209 #8 Posted December 12, 2013 I agree with Shorts. Time for a tear down and rebuild. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 232 #9 Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) James, what have you found out. Curious to hear back on this one. Edited December 12, 2013 by Fordiesel69 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #10 Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) I have a kohler k301 and it was burning oil and had piston slap and I was wondering if the only way it can be burning oil is through the rings or if it could be coming form the valve shafts not sealing. Thanks James- The answer is both. I had a K301as doing the same thing in my C125A when I bought it. I used it for a year or two-then tore it down and took it to a machine shop-ended up doing a complete rebuild-the gain power was amazing! And no more 1qt of oil every 2 hours on running. If you do the assembly yourself-it can be very reasonable in price. Edited December 13, 2013 by illinilefttackle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesC-120 204 #11 Posted December 13, 2013 Thanks for all the help, I am going to have it bored Saturday and have new valve guides put in and get the crank turned and mill the head. Then buy new piston, rings, have rod inserts made, new guides, gaskets and hopefully that does it. Thanks again for all the help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,209 #12 Posted December 13, 2013 That will do it. All the best Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #13 Posted December 13, 2013 Thanks for all the help, I am going to have it bored Saturday and have new valve guides put in and get the crank turned and mill the head. Then buy new piston, rings, have rod inserts made, new guides, gaskets and hopefully that does it. Thanks again for all the help A word of advice. Buy the piston and rings ahead of time to take with you to the machine shop. That way he can measure as he goes and match the bore to the new piston. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesC-120 204 #14 Posted December 13, 2013 How an I going to know what piston to buy if I don't know how much it needs to be bored? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 232 #15 Posted December 13, 2013 Whatever is in there now, go up one size. If STD, go 010. If .010 go .020 Unless ran out of oil with deep scores, gouges, you can get away with the next size. Word of advice, spend the little extra for Mahle Style "D" piston, and the narrow rod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesC-120 204 #16 Posted December 13, 2013 I'm not replacing the rod I am having a bearing put in it for $15, I have had them before and are awesome and give you extra compression with 20 thousands pop out. What is the advantage of the Mahle Style "D" piston? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 232 #17 Posted December 13, 2013 Better oil contol, rings overall seal better. Stronger wristpin area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #18 Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) How an I going to know what piston to buy if I don't know how much it needs to be bored? Thanks You have the cylinder measured first. That is how you determine what piston you need. Any self-respecting machine shop won't bore a cylinder without having the new piston on hand. The machinist will measure the cylinder, tell you that you need a .010, or .020 over piston. Then based on the exact measurements of your new piston, he will bore the cylinder until there is the proper clearance. Not every piston is exactly the same as the next, especially if you are using after-market. Edited December 13, 2013 by rmaynard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaineDad 85 #19 Posted December 13, 2013 Please take Bob's advice. He's absolutely right... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #20 Posted December 14, 2013 I would also go with a new rod. I have seen old one break on a fresh rebuild. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesC-120 204 #21 Posted December 14, 2013 Its to late to replace the rod because I already order the bearing insert. Thanks for all the help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 232 #22 Posted December 14, 2013 You can have the new rod also milled for the bearing insert. No big deal there. A burnt rod, or one that is loose / scored could break. Measuring the cyl at the shop is definatly better, but I have never had to go more then one size, unless it was scored up bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesC-120 204 #23 Posted December 14, 2013 Thanks for all the help guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
