valspar tractor and implement paint help!

[zanepetty 117]

Hey all. I'm going to start painting my tractor with valspar tractor paint. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for that stuff? It says nothing about thinning on the can. I called valspar and they said to use naphtha if I had to. How can I tell? Thanks,

Zane

[rmaynard 14,907]

The Valspar paint is an alkyd paint, meaning it is oil-based. You can thin it with VM&P Naphtha, available at any paint or hardware store. VM&P Naphtha has a faster evaporation rate than mineral spirits. In this type of weather, you may want to find a compatible hardener to mix with the paint or you will be waiting weeks for it to cure.

[stevasaurus 22,231]

Bob, I think Zane is looking for the recipe and asking how does he know if he has to thin it.

 

Zane I have a recipe for xo-rust, but I am not sure if it is the same kind of paint (oil based)...it is...

1 oz thinner

2 oz flood penetrol

6 oz paint (xo-rust)

[zanepetty 117]

Right. I bought hardener. I just don't know if I need to thin it or not. It doesn't say anything about it so I called valspar and they said if need be use the VM&p naphtha. I just don't know if I'll need to or not..

[rmaynard 14,907]

Spray painting with something like Valspar Tractor paint is going to be trial and error, unless there is a data sheet to tell you how to thin for various types of sprayers.

 

Here is the data sheet for the now discontinued Restoration Series paint. It should be similar.

 

27-3340 Series Valspar Restoration Tractor & Implement Finish.pdf

[zanepetty 117]

Thanks Bob. This could help me a lot. What's a good way to polish up an old steering wheel? Its got some paint on it n areas. Just paint it as well?

[rmaynard 14,907]

I clean mine with steel wool and coat it with VHT vinyl dye.

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&s=

[zanepetty 117]

Great. Thanks so much

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

if need be

 

they say that because they don't know how you are going to apply the paint ( brush, roller, spray). With new eco laws in place, the reccommendations for maximum dilution have been cut way back so as not to violate the VOC rules from the EPA.

 

The "maximum" thinning statement on consumer enamel paints are based more on the manufactuer not violating current VOC restrictions more than making the paint easy to apply via a spray gun. Calling tech reps to ask for other possible thinning ratios will be a futile excercise. Tech reps are forbidden to make any recommendations that would result in "off label use" of their product and put them in legal jepardy.

 

This is all of secondary concern to the characteristics of the spray gun and nozzle size you intend to use. Most gun manufactuers publish a recommended viscosity rating at which they obtain the best atomization from a particular family of spray gun.

 

You will need to MEASURE the viscosity of the paint / thinner mixture to come close to the needs of the spray gun.

 

Before you thin the color coat, a decision will need to be made on the "speed" of the thinner (how fast the thinnner evaporates from the paint film).

 

How fast the thinnner evaporates depends on the type of thinner used plus the environment the thinner evaporates in.Mineral spirits are a slow thinner - Naptha is faster and Acetone is the quickest to evaporate from the paint.

 

Slower thinners are used in higher temperatures. The slower tinner allows the paint to "lay down" flat before drying.

 

Slow thinners used in cold temps will cause runs and sags but will perform well in higher temps.

 

Fast thinners used in high temps might promote paints to dry in mid air before they hit the metalwork. This mid air curing  results in a very grainy, sandpaper like "dry" finish. No sags but no glossy either. My first lacquer paint job looked like 600 grit sandpaper. Too fast of a thinner on a hot summer day. Gawd awful.

 

We forgot to mention humidity and air flow across the painted metalworks - that's a whole 'nuther story.

 

Pick your thinner, dilute the paint to the vicosity required by the gun and then begin to setup the mechanical adjustments on your gun.

air pressure correct? at the gun or at the tip pressure? which one have you measured?

how about an air filter at the base of the gun? it would be a shame to spit a water droplet in the center of a possible flawless paint job.

you did clean out the white "snots" from the air passages of the harbor freight gun? didn't you?

if not then at least run some thinner thru the gun first to get rid of possible oil residue on the gun internal parts. Oil will promote "fish eyes" an ruin an otherwise good finish.

 

Once the gun is setup for a good fan pattern and proper material delivery, start to work on your technique. Know how to maintain a "wet edge"?  How much stroke overlap you going to use so as not to promote runs or drips? Google and Youtube are your best friends on these subjects.

Best advise at this point would be to practice on a primed piece of sheet metal and get your gun technique down on both vertical and horizontal positions. Don't practice on your tractor tins.

 

Wait a minute?  What primer did you use?  I'm sure it will be past its recoat window if its already been laid down. Enamels usually have a "recoat with 1 hour" restriction. After that window you have lost your ability to have the color topcoat chemically bond to the primer. If the hour is gone, you must wait at least an addiitonal 48 hours for the primer to evap all its thinner. If you don't wait, you will get a wrinkled finish (the primer shrinks under the top coat and drags the top coat with it). After 48 hours, you no longer have the ability to achieve a strong chemical bond between the top coat and the primer and now you must scuff the primer to create a rough surface the top coat can mechanically bond with. Make sure if you scuff you clean the scuffed surface again with surface prep. Top coat will have a hard time bonding to a scuff dust film on the primer.

 

If you are intent on using harderners, please read up on the all the dangers of using isocyanate based hardners without proper protection. To date, I have not found a simple face mask filtration system that properly captures this potentially deadly vapor. Please consider the dangers if you are using this addiitove in enclosed spaces.

 

Starting to see how everything about the process is inter-related?

 

Don't want to scare anyone away with all the ifs, buts and warnings. My hope is with the proper preparation and armed with some idea of all the interactions, you will have a chance of success on your first attempt.

 

Sorry for the long read but maybe the time taken to type this out may save you time in not having to redo your first spray job.  Good luck.

 

p.s. the best results I have achieved with enamels have always been at the very lower limit of the published temp ranges of the paint. Rustoleum, etc usually have a 50F lower limit for application. I have repeatadly sprayed in the lower 40's and have been amazed at how well the finish laid down AND hardened without any hardner added. Haven't figured out why that is so .. yet.

Edited December 5, 2013 by Save Old Iron

[zanepetty 117]

Wow good info. Thanks so much! I have cleaned my gun well, I have scuffed up all the primer and as for all the other stuff I have no idea...

[rmaynard 14,907]

Years ago, my brother had a furniture stripping and refinishing shop. I worked with him on weekends. He taught me how to paint and finish. There were so many products out there, and when I was working, the products we used were much different than the products of today. So most of what I learned, I had to re-learn years later as I went from finishing furniture to painting tractors. But, the best thing that I was taught was to practice, practice, practice.

 

You may be impatient as I tend to be, and want to jump right into painting the tractor. Don't do it. Start with some big pieces of cardboard. The big thing you will notice is that painting with the finish coat is entirely different than painting with primer. Get the feel of the gun. Adjust the settings. Adjust the mixture of the paint/thinner. Try spraying horizontal surfaces first, then try vertical. Notice how much paint you have to spray before it runs. Notice how many coats it takes before you have coverage. When you feel comfortable with spraying, and you feel you have the right mix, then and only then move on to the tractor parts. Small parts like brake pedals, foot rests, front axle, spindles and such, are easy to paint, and are quite forgiving, as is the frame, transmission, and most cast parts. Remember that everything has to be painted both sides, and with multiple coats. Be patient. Don't expect perfection the first time. Then when it comes to what I call the "show" parts such as the hood, fenders, seat, belt covers, and dash tower, start with areas that are going to be inconspicuous like the underside of the hood, backside of the belt cover, inside of the fenders, etc. Shooting the larger areas of sheet metal will get you in trouble every time if you don't plan, and aren't patient.

 

Also remember, when painting with a gun, move your body with the gun as you paint. Don't just stand still and move your arm. Doing so will cause the gun to move in an arc, causing the paint to be heavier in some areas, and thinner in others.

 

 

Good luck, take lots of pictures, and use good breathing protection.

Edited December 3, 2013 by rmaynard

[zanepetty 117]

I sure will. My first day of painting is hopefully tomorrow. I'm pretty nervous. Ill be sure to take pics. Thanks guys

[953 nut 51,739]

   when you are finished.  Lacking a viscosity measuring device I have found that a good sprayable mix will take three seconds to drip from a stir stick, no more, no less! Since VOCs take longer to evaporate your finish will lay down better on a cool day and look better like Save Old Iron said. That was quite a tutorial he gave us!

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

[zanepetty 117]

I will for sure! Today I had it dropping at 4 seconds. It looks good. For the sheet metal I'll make it 3. Thanks a bunch!

[redrooster 83]

What type of respirator do you use when spraying paint that uses hardner? I have read that is very toxic.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk