how do you use 1 attach with 2 on tractor?

[876wheelhorse 46]

ok got some work for the ole horse to do. i got the blade on the front and was going to put a disk on rear. is there away to just use the disk and keep the blade up and vise versa use the blade and keep the disk up? i was thinking how to use both and not have to un hook one of them all the time?

[MalMac 1,332]

I don't see this happening without modifications.

[Tankman 3,523]

I can't see it workin' also.

 

You could raise the disk manually, reach back 'n lift.

 

Perhaps you could setup a linear actuator for one or the other but, the cable to the rear would have to be unhooked.

[RMCIII 838]

If the tractor uses hydraulics you can, but like stated above, you need to modify the hoses. You would install a shut-off valve. Lift whichever attachment you were not using, the turn the valve off. The flow will still operate the other attachment.

[Old Ways 30]

I believe the blade uses a lift rod, that will allow it to "float"?  It's been too long since I've messed with one.  

If that's the case you can use a small chain, and drill holes in the frame.   Just lift the plow, and attach the chain to the bottom of the tractor (in a secure way, as you don't want it droppin') and you should be able to use the rear implement independantly.  For the rear, you could do something similar but I'd attach it to the attachment itself.

[Kelly 1,033]

That is one nice thing about Simplicity tractors you can run two attachments at the same time, but there is no good way on a WH.

[Hodge71 665]

Get yourself a D and you'll be all set!!!

[KC9KAS 4,744]

Get yourself a D and you'll be all set!!!

Or a GT-14 with the optional cylinder for the 3 point lift!

[953 nut 60,096]

  sortof like Mr Bass-Man said, I made up a pair of 1/2" steel rods which are bent on the ends and hook from the plow to frame to hold it up while using the rear lift. Never bothered to do this out back because my rear implements aren't on very long.

[leeave96 490]

I believe the blade uses a lift rod, that will allow it to "float"? It's been too long since I've messed with one.

If that's the case you can use a small chain, and drill holes in the frame. Just lift the plow, and attach the chain to the bottom of the tractor (in a secure way, as you don't want it droppin') and you should be able to use the rear implement independantly. For the rear, you could do something similar but I'd attach it to the attachment itself.

+1 - simply chain the blade in the up position and you are good to go!

Sent from my E270BSA using Tapatalk

[Old Ways 30]

  sortof like Mr Bass-Man said, I made up a pair of 1/2" steel rods which are bent on the ends and hook from the plow to frame to hold it up while using the rear lift. Never bothered to do this out back because my rear implements aren't on very long.

 

 

 

I believe the blade uses a lift rod, that will allow it to "float"? It's been too long since I've messed with one.

If that's the case you can use a small chain, and drill holes in the frame. Just lift the plow, and attach the chain to the bottom of the tractor (in a secure way, as you don't want it droppin') and you should be able to use the rear implement independantly. For the rear, you could do something similar but I'd attach it to the attachment itself.

+1 - simply chain the blade in the up position and you are good to go!

Sent from my E270BSA using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Glad there are people to make sure I'm right!  Don't want to be misleading anyone. 

[DoctorHfuhruhurr 137]

After experiencing the pleasure of swapping out attachments a few times I found it would be more efficient (for me) to just buy one tractor for each attachment and leave it on all the time.  It wasn't worth my time and back strain to regularly swap attachments.  Plus, as I was acquiring various  attachments, they tended to come with worker tractors.  

[KC9KAS 4,744]

After experiencing the pleasure of swapping out attachments a few times I found it would be more efficient (for me) to just buy one tractor for each attachment and leave it on all the time.  It wasn't worth my time and back strain to regularly swap attachments.  Plus, as I was acquiring various  attachments, they tended to come with worker tractors.  

Ahhhh. This is why we have multiple tractors!

[posifour11 723]

After experiencing the pleasure of swapping out attachments a few times I found it would be more efficient (for me) to just buy one tractor for each attachment and leave it on all the time. It wasn't worth my time and back strain to regularly swap attachments. Plus, as I was acquiring various attachments, they tended to come with worker tractors.

Perfectly logical answer!!

[DoctorHfuhruhurr 137]

 

After experiencing the pleasure of swapping out attachments a few times I found it would be more efficient (for me) to just buy one tractor for each attachment and leave it on all the time.  It wasn't worth my time and back strain to regularly swap attachments.  Plus, as I was acquiring various  attachments, they tended to come with worker tractors.  

Ahhhh. This is why we have multiple tractors!

 

 

Yup, the perfect way to rationalize the purchase of many more tractors.  

[876wheelhorse 46]

well like doctor said i will have to buy a tractor for each job then. one for pushing dirt snow one for pulling plow and one for pulling disk. like to get a tiller also that means another tractor... wow way over my head in tractors then have to invent something to run both then thanks

[Wheel-N-It 2,976]

To add to that I would say only buy the ones that you know will do the job well, such as 12, 14, or 16hp. Also I like having multiples where everything interchanges, just in case in an emergency I can take a part off of one to repair the one that broke. A good case for that is about three weeks ago I was mowing the infield of the go-kart track when the left side tie rod came apart on the 416-8. Driving it 1000 feet back to the shop was not an option. Neither was pushing it as it was mostly uphill. After walking back to the shop I realized the only spare tie rod I had left was a right side, so I had to unbolt the one off a C165 that I am restoring. The engine for that one is at the rebuilders so no harm, no foul doing this. I bolted the tie rod on the 416 and withing 30 minutes was mowing again. Anyway to make a long story short keeping all your tractors basically the same (mechanically) will make owning multiple tractors much easier on you, and it will make more sense mechanically. If you know how to work on one, you will know how to work on them all.

[leeave96 490]

To add to that I would say only buy the ones that you know will do the job well, such as 12, 14, or 16hp. Also I like having multiples where everything interchanges, just in case in an emergency I can take a part off of one to repair the one that broke. A good case for that is about three weeks ago I was mowing the infield of the go-kart track when the left side tie rod came apart on the 416-8. Driving it 1000 feet back to the shop was not an option. Neither was pushing it as it was mostly uphill. After walking back to the shop I realized the only spare tie rod I had left was a right side, so I had to unbolt the one off a C165 that I am restoring. The engine for that one is at the rebuilders so no harm, no foul doing this. I bolted the tie rod on the 416 and withing 30 minutes was mowing again. Anyway to make a long story short keeping all your tractors basically the same (mechanically) will make owning multiple tractors much easier on you, and it will make more sense mechanically. If you know how to work on one, you will know how to work on them all.

+1 Van hit the nail on the head. From the early 70's to the bitter end, Wheelhorse made interchangeable parts easy. I'be got 3 IH Cub Cadets and while the basic concept of shaft driven engine to tranny is similar between, very little interchanges. You kind of have to learn each tractor.

When I work on my different models of Wheelhorse I have or have owned, it's like I'm working on the same tractor, be it 520H, 314-8 or C-111.