310-8 restoration/rebuild

[Draudio 32]

Beginning to dismantle replacement hoodstand. Overall it is not too bad, but I did find 2 breaks. One at the rear where the fender support would go. This seems to be typical since three out the four I have the same break. The other is on the same rail right near the lift lever. A little welding and grinding should fix it right up. 

 

I'm debating about keeping it black just because I think it looks cool. However this is a 'red hood' so originally it would have all been red and I'd like to keep it close to original. I'm torn.

 

 

[Draudio 32]

OK..... I evidently have "exceeded my alloted disk space for attachements"

 

Do I get any more alloted to me over time or do I have to get rid of some of the pics?

[posifour11 723]

If you have an account with an off site host like photo bucket, you can add the image code to your post. Hope that makes sense.

[Draudio 32]

Thanks, after a little research I found out there is a limit to uploads unless you become a supporter.

I thought about just adding links but I just decided to become a supporter. 

 

 

[Draudio 32]

Front hitch/axle support now painted and should be ready to install this weekend.

 

 

Got a new(to me) brake band off the bay site. It has a good bit of life left in it which is more than I can say for the old one. There was nothing but metal left.

 

 

I decide to use a metallic black on the steering rod and front plate that the solenoid mount to. I have already used this on the shifter plate and PTO retainer bar. I think it is going to add a little sparkle to the whole build. I'd like to use it on the engine but I haven't found high heat metallic paint yet.

 

 

[Draudio 32]

I made a lot of progress this weekend. Starting to look like a tractor again!

Lots of pics to show progress.

 

Front hitch/axle support installed. Probably going to change nuts to stainless.

Lower steering installed, just need the right cotter pin to hold it in.

Brake drum installed. Bolt & washer were still drying when the pic was taken.

 

 

 

 

My new(to me) hoodstand going thru the process. It turned out quite nice.

I couldn't get the bell crank to come off the lift lever so I just dealt with it.

 

 

 

 

Here's the battery tray going thru the process. The paint was bubbled nice and came off quite easily. 

This one was much nicer than the first one I ran thru, so I decided to use this one instead.

 

 

 

Now for the form starting to take shape, and I think it is looking AWESOME!

I do know how to put some of this together blindfolded now. I installed some of the brake linkage before the dust cover and couldn't get it in without removing the brake bell crank and linkage again.    Same thing happened with the PTO lever and battery tray. Guess I just didn't pay attention to how I got it apart.

 

Other than that it went together quite nicely. I just had to run a tap in some of the holes in the frame to clear the paint that had gotten in there.

Shifter plate is just sitting there to see how it looks.

 

See for yourself, and comments welcome. 

 

 

 

 

Just a reminder pic of how it looked a month and a half ago!

 

[boovuc 1,090]

That is just awesome! Most folks would have stripped what they could from those machines and you are bringing this one back to the showroom.

[KATO 115]

VERY NICE INDEED    

[Draudio 32]

Haven't had much time to work on this the last few days. However, I have had some time to stare at what I have left and try to work up a game plan. Of course, NOW I try to make plan, where was this idea when I got started?!   Actually at the time I just couldn't stand to watch it rust any more and jumped in with both feet.

 

Anyway, the original electrical seems to have been "modified" quite a bit. Safety switches bypassed and a toggle connected to the key switch. As well, almost all the wiring is black, which makes it really difficult to tell what went where without tracing and checking continuity on each wire while staring at the diagram. Oh and I can't seem to find a diagram specifically for the 1985. I think '88 is the closest I have come and unless many things were removed from mine they are different. 

The "Anniversary Edition" that is the carcass I picked up a week or so ago has the test lights, volt meter and hour meter.

 

 

 

 I would like to take that wiring harness/meters and move it to the rebuild. This wiring harness is not complete either but I should be able to repair it. Someone cut off the connector to the engine and the key switch but everything else seems to be there.

 

 

 

Keep in mind I have limited knowledge on the electrical systems on WH but I am learning.

It is my understanding that this tractor most likely has a 3 amp system which may not be enough to power to run all of this. So is it as simple(in theory) as changing the stator to make this work correctly(proper current)? Or is there something I don't know yet?

 

Is this something I should post a separate question on so more people can see it? 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

[bitten 134]

Are you planing on hooking the safety switches back up? I would think that your new harness would be more of a night mare then using the old one. I will look at mine when I go out to the shop later and see if I can help.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,869]

1985 310-8 model 21-10K801 wiring diagram

 

Garry

[Draudio 32]

The download page for the diagram states 3 amp unregulated charging system. The diagram shows the hour meter and voltmeter, does this mean I do not have to change anything to connect these? They are the only thing on the acc circuit so it looks like it would be simple.

Also would there be any benefit to upgrading the stator and adding a regulator?

Possibly move the lights to the acc circuit so they wouldn't depend on RPM for brightness?

 

@bitten- Yes I will be hooking all the safety switches up. I am hoping to have my children drive it sometimes and don't need any "extra" safety concerns when they do. As for the nightmare you speak of, I think both are a possible nightmare at this time. I have actually thought of just making my own due to the condition of the original one. Plus now that I have the proper diagram it all seems to make more sense.

[Draudio 32]

Pulled the tank/seat supports, steering shaft and one of the console plates from the e-tank tonight. I didn't have time to paint them so I'm hoping they don't rust up on me overnight. I think I got them dried off enough that they won't but even if they do a quick brushing should clean them right up.

 

Here's some before and after shots

 

The clean area in the first pic is where there was still grip tape. Which pulled right off, a lot easier than heating and scraping, then scrubbing with goof off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yeah...I almost forgot...This weekend I am picking up a 1971 Cub Cadet 129 with mower, dozer blade, snow thrower, and a single blade plow. I believe it is all original and just needs a good bath. It is/was my grandfather's and has spent it's entire life indoors. I remember him keeping it in the basement before he had a shed. 

 

I know we are all WH fans here but I'm sure most are like me and like all the old iron. 

 

 

[Wheel-N-It 2,976]

Thanks, after a little research I found out there is a limit to uploads unless you become a supporter.

I thought about just adding links but I just decided to become a supporter. 

 

Thank you for becoming a Supporter !

[AMC RULES 37,251]

Like the battery tray for example...

typically, how long are you leaving these parts in the Etank? 

Great progress so far.

Go Draudio Go!  

[Draudio 32]

I've got a constant rotation of parts thru the tank. That is the best thing about using the e-tank, I can just load it and pull them out when I am ready for he next part.

The parts can be in there anywhere from a few hours to several days. I usually have several parts in there at a time and I just pick out the one that looks like it is most ready. Or in some cases the next part I need to move forward with assembly.

 

The battery tray was in for about 20 hours(I think). 

The foot rest was in for about a week so, it almost wiped clean except for the really rusty areas. They took a little work to get them to shine.

 

Thanks for the enthusiastic support. It's people like you that help to keep me motivated.

I am looking forward to showing it off at the big show in June. 

[AMC RULES 37,251]

No sir, you're the one that needs to be commended...    

for having the enthusiasm to take on a project that most people would deem "too far gone"

[Draudio 32]

Lots of rain around here lately has had my shadetree workshop shutdown.

I did get to work on it some today. I installed the tie rods and painted a few parts. Finally got some red on the main section of the tank stand. Once it dries I can start to put the parts back on and get the tank cleaned up and installed.

I also wire wheeled the console and got a few coats of primer on. I'm using the filler primer to help fill some fair sized pits from the rust.

[Draudio 32]

Well things have dried out a little around here after the deluge of rain early this past weekend.

I got the tank stand installed along with the fender support.

 

 

 

Getting down to only a handful of sheet metal to run through the e-tank! 

The hood and rear fender pan are the two biggest things left to refinish.

 

The console is now painted and nearly all of the pits seen in the pic are gone thanks to the filler primer. I didn't get a finished pic yet but I will soon.

 

I was trying to figure out how to paint my clutch spring because it was already starting to rust back up on me. I came up with (what I thought was) a brilliant idea.

 I originally thought about hanging it and putting weight on it to open the coils. Well that seemed like a pain because it is a pretty strong spring and would need a fair amount of weight. My solution was to just bend it and hook it to itself to open the coils. Then once it dried I just twisted it to open up the other side. It worked great, the finished spring looks like new. 

 

 

 

Now the next thing I just couldn't help myself. I was getting tired of seeing it with no feet just sitting on the crates. So I yanked the front wheels off of my other 310-8 until I can get the rims finished and get some new tires on them. I still need to get one more rear wheel on, it was getting late and dark. It will be a full roller as soon as I can do that. 

 

 

 

I had to take a break from it yesterday to celebrate my son's birthday   . I still can't get over the fact that I am now the parent of a TEENAGER! 

Although his behavior and attitude make more sense now. 

 

Edited October 16, 2013 by Draudio

[dhammer 2]

I am at the same stage you are right now. Waiting on weather to clear so that I can get some engine cleaning and painting done. Thanks for all the pics. I did not get enough pics before I started and I am struggling with some of the wiring. No hurry to get this done. Keep the pics coming. Looking good.

[Desko 636]

Any update of this old horse

[Draudio 32]

The only update at this time is the amount of snow on top of the tarp!  

Unfortunately having a "shade tree" shop and a winter of this magnitude has me closed until spring.

I didn't even get a chance to dump my e-tank before it froze and it hasn't thawed out since! 

Hopefully I get back to it as soon as the weather warms up. I'm trying to bring it up for the show in June as a completed project(we'll see  )

 

We recently got @26" with the bigger storm and an additional 2-3" today. 

I've had to put the old yellow machine to work for this winter but hope to have this one up to task for next year.

 

The project tractor is in the red circle. 

[bitten 134]

How's it coming?

[Desko 636]

Yup I'd live to see an up date the snow shouldn't be to deep any more LOL thanks for sharing

[Wishin4a416 2,332]

Your doing very nice work. It is gonna be nice when your done!