boovuc 1,090 #1 Posted September 16, 2013 Another "issue" with my 310-8 though this one was pretty easy to diagnose! This tractor is always a very dependable machine so when I went to start it yesterday to mow, it didn't have a charge left in it. (Old battery I am nursing through the summer). Our grass hasn't been growing much and I used the 867 to mow what little green I had left. The 310 sat for about 3 weeks unused. Hooked up the battery charger with the start booster and waited for the battery to come up to about 60% life then fired it. Not enough juice to do it but in attempting several times, I noticed it would start to turn over then nothing. After awhile, it was all nothing. Swapped batteries and had the same. Checked the solenoid and it was good. Then I pulled the ignition switch. I had no continuity between the two tabs in the start position. The other terminals worked as they should. Ordered an aftermarket switch this evening. I have never had sooooo much trouble with electrical components as I have had with this 310. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted September 16, 2013 I have never had sooooo much trouble with electrical components as I have had with this 310. Don't worry, your 520 will catch up quickly!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,252 #3 Posted September 16, 2013 When my 312-8 did that I just put in a light duty starter push button I had to the solenoid and use the key for ignition only, got the job done for free. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #4 Posted September 16, 2013 I thought about a push button but wanted to keep it stock. Oh and Sorekiwi.......... Thanks for that encouraging fortune telling on my 520. (But you know your right and I know it too). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #5 Posted September 20, 2013 The switch came yesterday. You know I looked at it then compared it to the broken 6 terminal and a spare 5 terminal OEM switch I have. CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP! You can feel how light the aftermarket switch is and it just isn't built well compared to the OEM. (The key opening looks like they left a shroud off). The question is, will it last as long as the OEM? I stuck it in there and she fired right up and that is why I bought it! Time will tell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #6 Posted September 20, 2013 I was pretty unhappy with the quality of the replacement I got too... I mean, it works and all... but for how long? 30 years as the original did? doubtful... will I still be driving it in 30 years? not unless they bury me on it! What I was most unhappy about was the fit of the mounting nut. I couldn't get it to tighten down without it 'skipping' a thread. I used the nut from the old switch which was a better fit and did get it to tighten. Did your's have pizz poor threads? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #7 Posted September 21, 2013 Hi Jeff, Yes it did and yes I used the old nut to tighten it up too. Had to laugh when I saw your post. Mine did the exact same thing as yours! I thought "maybe" one of the washers provided would fit over the cheesy mount to help hold it better but it didn't. The original sat flush with 100% metal contact to the back of the dash panel. This has about 60% contact due to the design. Of course it was meant to replace far more switches than just what Wheelhorse produced. Just looking at the switch, this thing would lock up tighter than a drum if it was left outside like a lot of our machines were in their lifespans. Regardless......it works as it should and I just want it to keep doing what it does when I flip the switch! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Draudio 32 #8 Posted October 3, 2013 Interesting! One of mine recently did just what you described. I had a hunch it was the switch but wasn't positive. That will be where I test first. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
