tomtractor 71 #1 Posted August 13, 2013 So sorry if this question has been asked 1000 times before. BUT... My battery does not charge on my C125. The amp meter seems to work. It hangs right around the center. The battery originally had a draw somewhere and would kill the battery in short time. So I installed a shut off switch on the + terminal. This helped with the battery draw when shut off. NOW the battery does not charge when I mow for about an hour. What should I check. I checked all grounds. Could it be the ignition? Thoughts... Thanks Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #2 Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) Tom, you've checked that 25A fuse, yes? Have you got a multimeter and know how to use it? Have you downloaded the wiring diagram? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1645-tractor-1980-1984-c-series-wiring-from-ompdf/ How do you know that the battery is good? Edited August 13, 2013 by Jeffpicks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #3 Posted August 13, 2013 Hi Jeff! I also have a really nice multimeter...,but I have don't have any idea how to use it! How do these meters help us, with battery/electrical problems? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #4 Posted August 13, 2013 Well... with a charging system problem like this, you would use it along with the schematic to test where you are 'losing' the charging voltage. There's a number of things that could be wrong with a charging system. The stator winding under the flywheel might not be putting out voltage... or the regulator/rectifier might not be doing it's job and putting out the correct voltage... or the ammeter might be bad and not passing the voltage through to the battery... or the fuse might be bad... or the ignition switch could be pooched... And with the meter and the schematic one could work through the circuit and localize where the trouble is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,025 #5 Posted August 13, 2013 First thing you do is put the meter in the DC mode and see how much voltage you have at the battery when the engine is not running, and again when the engine is running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chevrat68 19 #6 Posted September 15, 2013 (edited) I have a 72 raider 14 and I think you have about the same set up as me. I have had 2 problems with mine. A loose connection at the ignition switch and a bad male connecter on my voltage regulator rectifier. With ether of these your amp gauge will not give a proper reading. Edited September 15, 2013 by chevrat68 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ARK 9 #7 Posted November 6, 2013 That switch you installed on the + is it good,it needs a rating of 15V and equal to the maximum amp delivery of the alternator. With all off, dead stopped battery should measure 12.7 VDC If lower, charge independently then test voltage and specific gravity with a S.G. float When fully charged install, start motor: At idle 12.7 VDC or higher At highest RPM 14.5- 14.8 VDC no higher If battery reads the same when alternators charging it that alternator os its relative voltage is a problem old the battery and connections are a problem. Batteries especially lead acid wet cells must be examined in PM 2x a year at least. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
