Marv 982 #1 Posted August 9, 2013 I have an exhaust flange gasket blown. Need to remove the exhaust pipe. The bolts are seized of course. Now what is the best way to remove them without damaging the cylinders. My exhaust pipes are the one piece pipes. I am considering cutting the pipes off and trying to drill the bolts out. I haven't had any luck with penetrating oil. Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clem 28 #2 Posted August 9, 2013 Try heating them up with a torch, or possibly the engines own operating temp, then use wax (like small birthday candles) to touch as close to the threads as possible. The wax will wick into the threads & allow you to take them out as if they were lubed. I have seen this work on things that were so rusted that most of the threads were unrecognizable! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 665 #3 Posted August 9, 2013 Try heating them up with a torch, or possibly the engines own operating temp, then use wax (like small birthday candles) to touch as close to the threads as possible. The wax will wick into the threads & allow you to take them out as if they were lubed. I have seen this work on things that were so rusted that most of the threads were unrecognizable! I have heard of this wax trick working....I can say cutting them off isn't the best idea and then drilling them out. I did mine that way and the cast iron is so brittle and old that I broke the rear ears off both sides. The fronts are fine because the casting is very thick there. It has turned out horrible. I need to get the block ears welded now. The fronts came right out after I heated the block cherry red. I hope you have better luck than myself and at least 4 other members on here who had the same thing happen. I took solace in that fact...... believe me I beat myself up real bad til I heard from others that it always happens that way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Austin860 82 #4 Posted August 9, 2013 I just spend 4 long hours tapping and drilling all 4 of my exhaust bolts. Sometimes you just gotta put in the work. I mean you can always keep puttin penetrant oil in it, and then try tapping the bolt heads with a hammer, then taking a box wrench, and gently tap the end of the box wrench, to see you you can break it. If not, I busted out all 4, and it was only a 4 hour job. No matter what you do, as long as you drill the relatively same hole you will be fine:) Just my 2 cents Austin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #5 Posted August 9, 2013 Marv...From what others have said, I think I would try the wax method 1st! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 982 #6 Posted August 10, 2013 Thanks for your ideas. The wax treatment is one I hadn't heard of. Interesting idea. Since the bolt heads are tight against the flange and no threads are exposed and none of the bolt shank wonder how the wax could get in there. Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #7 Posted August 10, 2013 I've never heard of the 'wax' treatment either, sounds like it has possibilities -- in some cases, for instance as you mentioned about your problem having heads on the bolts? If you try it let us know - in fact keep us posted on your progress. Stuck/rusted/broke off bolts/screws are an all too common problem in many mechanical situations - remember the recent post here about the broke off head bolt and its refusal to come out with many of the old tried and true methods and finally having to be machined out? Seems every situation calls for a different approach - I know one thing for sure about a stuck/broke bolt and that is --- they are a pain in the a** Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clem 28 #8 Posted August 10, 2013 You gotta get it hot as if you were just using a torch only (cherry red) so engine temp only will probly not quite get you there. I know it sounds like snake oil, but this is a trick from an origional wheel horse employee/farmer freind. This guy used to bring stuff home & torture test back in the early days, and I actually met him through his son whom first showed me how it works. It's action is similar to penetrating oil. If you get things hot enough, it WILL work. He explained it as a wicking action, it will draw the wax into areas that are not even visible provided sufficient heat is applied. Sometimes it takes a couple tries, usually because it's a little unnerving to see that you are nearly melting down a piece of equipment that you don't want to trash! Be patient, and cautiously persistent! If you are to the point where you have no way to get the proper tool on the fastener (already broken) then you are looking at another method. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 84 #9 Posted August 10, 2013 Wow, great thread. I've broken a block trying to get the flange bolts off. This may save me some crying and swearing in the future. I'd love to see some pics of the application inaction. Thanx for the info. j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbartlett1958 99 #10 Posted August 12, 2013 I had an "Old" mechanic friend of mine show me a trick once. His method for stuck bolts/studs that were at all exposed from the block was to heat with a torch, then clamp on a pair of big vise grips. The vise grips would act as a heat sink, causing the stud to contract faster than the block area, which would break things free. I have used this method many times since with good success. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
