ScottR 5 #26 Posted October 15, 2013 The air filter is not getting soaked with gas. When the engine wants to stall I assume it's flooding because it emits a puff of exhaust I immediately come to a stop and disengage the PTO and it smooths out, until the next time. I'll order a rebuild kit and probably be back asking questions once I get in to it. Thanks for the advice. Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #27 Posted October 15, 2013 It sounds to me that you might be missing the baffle above the float bowl in the carb. Hitting rough spots on your yard will cause symptoms like you have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottR 5 #28 Posted October 15, 2013 Paul, This is a Walbro WHG carb. I don't think it uses a baffle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #29 Posted October 15, 2013 Clean the carb one more time and blow the carb body out with compressed air, it might do the trick. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ARK 9 #30 Posted October 22, 2013 From what you have posted the fuel level float needs adjusting, especially turning on hills. The M12 has restrictions on hills 15 degrees with carb forward if you have oil sentry. Seafoam is good but needs time to reduce carbon. Better to put in gas tank about 3 oz to full tank and clean as you use the tractor. Seafoam will release lots of gunk at one time and this gunk causes further problems as described. Take an afternoon and pull gas line, gas filter, carb, .PULL THE BOWL OFF THE CARB, LOOK FOR ANYTHING plugging up the needle valve, clean everything. Set idle and lean/richness screws to 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 turns in, let engine warm then fine tune, a RPM meter should be used. Set idle and high speed listen for lean and rich setting and find medium. When set load up engine and operate at all settings a thermal IR tester helps to see temperatures from head to sump area. Type of oil and quality makes a difference, experience has lead me to Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic. Carbon deposits are history. Check dipstick and conduit for gunk, pull spark plug look for carbon deposits. You can still do a compression test see what PSIG you get, but a leak down is simple and more accurate if your engine has compression release. Verify with a torque wrench the head bolts are snug and equal, check the book for setting, 30 FT/LBS ENGINE NEEDS compression, gas, air and spark at the correct time, just one component lacking will upset operation. Air filter, gas filter, gasoline and ratio of air to fuel are critical. Take your time, be methodical and tighten things evenly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottR 5 #31 Posted July 13, 2014 I just realized that I never closed out this thread that I started last autumn. Someone, I can't remember who,recommended spraying down the carb one more time. I did and the engine has run perfectly ever since. Many Thanks to that mystery man! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
