sjgriz4 0 #26 Posted June 30, 2013 I am going to head out and take all the wires off the switches and clean them real good and make sure that there is no corrosian anywhere and then see what I have. Fuel Problem? Oh my god now I am confused..... When I pull the plug I do not have any spark at the plug. When I spray a little go go juice down the carb it doesn't even want to fire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjgriz4 0 #27 Posted June 30, 2013 It is alive!!!!! I had the battery on charge for 1/2 hour and took the connections off of the seat switch and cleaned them real good and figure I would pull the plug to see if I have any effect on it and there was spark. Well needles to say I couldn't get the plug back in fast enough and tried to start it and the first turn BOOM!!! it started right up and ran great. Now I have to take the rest of the day cleaning the rest of the connections and put all the tin back on. Thanks for all the help and if there is anything else I need to look at let me know Thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #28 Posted June 30, 2013 Good deal Griz! Glad ya got it working. A little disheartening that it just started working by itself... and hope it don't act up again, but now you have something to go on if it does! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjgriz4 0 #29 Posted June 30, 2013 I got it all togerher and mowed with it this afternoon and it did ok. Is still runs weird, it still wants to surge unless I pull the choke just a little then it smooths out but when I was bouncing around the seat it starts run rough again and the idol way up (beyond what I think it should run at) then will idol down and run a little rough. Since this mower has sit for a couple or three years I think that the carb needs a good cleaning and reset. I do not feel comfortable with doing this and didn't know if there was anyone who worked on the Onan's that I could ship the carb to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #30 Posted June 30, 2013 Well, if yer bouncin' in the seat enough, the seat switch can make and break and cause general 'weirdness' in the way it's running. That bouncin' can also stir up sediment that might be in the gas tank, or the carburetor float bowl. Was there any gas still left in the tank? Did you dump it and start fresh? Probably nothing to do with the running, but you DID change the oil before you started it up after sitting all that time, yes? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjgriz4 0 #31 Posted June 30, 2013 Yes on the oil and filter, and I dumped the fuel and added new when I got it home. I get nervous when it comes to the carbs on anything. I have got an old 4 wheeler that was leaking fuel out of the overflow so this past winter I went through the carb with a rebuild kit and thought I did a good job until I put it back together and it still leaked. I found on Onanparts.com a rebuild kit and also a brand new carb in stock. Do they still make the seat switches, if so I might try this before anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #32 Posted July 1, 2013 Do they still make the seat switches, if so I might try this before anything. I would guess that the seat switch is OK. It's doing what it's supposed to be doing... if your butt comes off the seat it should cut the engine if the PTO is engaged. If yer bouncin' enough, your butt is coming off the seat! Maybe you just need to slow down a bit so you don't bounce around so much, or fill them potholes in yer turf! also a brand new carb in stock. And I bet it's around $300 ain't it? I don't think you need a new one... Maybe post an ad in the classifieds that you are looking for someone who can rebuild the carb for you? Just be careful who you send it to, you might never see it again... don't ship it to Nigeria! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjgriz4 0 #33 Posted July 1, 2013 Mostly when I mowed the hillsides is when I slid off the seat a little, I sent you an email concerning the carb. But I am going to ask around of anyone local can rebuild it cheaper with a rebuild kit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbartlett1958 96 #34 Posted July 1, 2013 Mostly when I mowed the hillsides is when I slid off the seat a little, I sent you an email concerning the carb. But I am going to ask around of anyone local can rebuild it cheaper with a rebuild kit. I had the same issue with the seat switch on my 416 last summer. The top of my seat switch had worn off, so I found a small screw and glued it into the top of the switch to raise the contact point just a bit. No problems since. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjgriz4 0 #35 Posted July 1, 2013 Mostly when I mowed the hillsides is when I slid off the seat a little, I sent you an email concerning the carb. But I am going to ask around of anyone local can rebuild it cheaper with a rebuild kit. I had the same issue with the seat switch on my 416 last summer. The top of my seat switch had worn off, so I found a small screw and glued it into the top of the switch to raise the contact point just a bit. No problems since. Yeah I checked that to make sure that it made contact with my daughter on it (lets just say she weighs a lot less than I do) and it did fine. I think the carb needs a good cleaning. I am going to post some pics of it once I figure out how Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timothy Box 4 #36 Posted September 16, 2013 I have a 1996 520h that I lost spark it gettn fuel I tried putting 3 diff coils on new plugs new regulator I really need help getting it running before it gets to cold out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,213 #37 Posted September 16, 2013 Not to distract the conversation but confirm the spark plug required at the top of the thread. The Performer-series Onan was changed to a Champion RS17YX. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #38 Posted September 17, 2013 check the onan service manual it will walk you through step by step on how to check the ignition triggerit basical is supposed to be at 12 + volts and drop down to somewhere around 1 volt the manual will tell you all the specific and the how to's good luck eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539 #39 Posted September 17, 2013 I have a 1996 520h that I lost spark it gettn fuel I tried putting 3 diff coils on new plugs new regulator I really need help getting it running before it gets to cold out Onan service manual Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timothy Box 4 #40 Posted September 17, 2013 Gary that link you sent doesn't go anywhere..... And I did put correct plugs in Do you need a tool to take flywheel off to get to ignition module ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539 #41 Posted September 17, 2013 Gary that link you sent doesn't go anywhere..... And I did put correct plugs in Do you need a tool to take flywheel off to get to ignition module ?? Opened fine for me but replaced it anyway. See if it downloads now. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
546cowboy 301 #42 Posted September 21, 2013 Why didn't you just run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil and see if you had spark? That eliminates all that wiring from the dash. If it starts, start checking back to the switch, If you still don't have spark then it is most likely the ignition module. I did have a 520 that had a bad PTO switch I had a heck of a time with that switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timothy Box 4 #43 Posted September 25, 2013 Tried running jumper wire ....no spark still. I'm ????? How do you check ignition module Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timothy Box 4 #44 Posted September 26, 2013 Thx to everyone that helped me....it was the ignition module Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
