Restoring A Dead Horse (C-165 AUTO)

[UncleGinger 0]

Looking for a little advice.  I got wiring issues with a C-165 Auto K341AS engine 16 HP. I got for free at scrapyard.  When I got it had no ignition switch, no safety switch, or PTO switch.  From looking online what I can see on diagrams you can bypass these right?  I have got a 4 prong ignition switch witch I was told would work even though I believe the one it came with was a five . A new starter solenoid, regulator rectifier, battery, wires, amp gage. Be for I replaced everything all I had to do was drop a battery in and jump it to the starter and it would crank right up but it would not charge the battery witch lead me to thinking the RR was shot I used the fluke meter to shot it down. Well when I was replacing it I figured might as well clean the ground points.  The starter solenoid was a three prong and looked really bad as far as corrosion goes so it went and I replace it.  All the wiring was spliced and frayed so I got some new wire and that's were it went down hill.  I followed I diagram off line that was for a C-160 which looked very similar to what I am working on.  Got everything wired and bolted back together. It turns over has fuel flow just now it has no spark any ideas? Like I said it was running before I gutted and redid the wiring.  So anyone in horse country that can throw some advise I'll take it cause. I want to get this thing back out in the field were it belongs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393]

Take it you have battery ignition?

 

Electrical manual

 

Garry

[UncleGinger 0]

If by battery ignition does the battery start it? Yes.  It will crank over but doesn't have any spark at the plug, even if I place a piece of wire in it to visually see the spark it has none.  It's getting compression I know and fuel cause you can smell it. Just no spark thinking about changing plug wires and coil.

[UncleGinger 0]

Garry Thanks for the manual.  Was a big help I found some things I missed. The issue now is that four post ignition, yeah it don't work for a fart.  Got a five point started up and ran like a raped ape. Then fun begins evidently the battery camps I got are not rated for that kind of voltage.  Cause they melted and caught on fire.  going to go look for eyelets and bolts tomorrow.  Again Garry thanks for the manuals. Know any place to get decals?  

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393]

Battery ignition uses an ignition coil powered by the battery and controlled by a set of ignition points and condenser. The coil has 3 terminals. One for the battery power in (+) and one for the (-) to the points and condenser. The center terminal is in a tower and holds the wire to the spark plug.

 

Magneto ignition and breakerless ignition systems are self powered so battery power not needed.

 

Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head. Turn the key on and see if you have power at the coil (+) terminal. Now check the (-) terminal. Turn the flywheel by hand. When the points close you should have 0 volts at the (-) terminal. When the points are open you should have 12 volts. If it does not go to 0 volts the point contacts are not completing the circuit when closed. They may need to be cleaned with a small file because they will get an invisible corrosion on them. Drag a strip of clean white paper through the contacts to clean them.

 

If this is OK then check for 12 volts at the (+) terminal with the key in the start position and the starter motor turning the engine over. An ignition switch can fail and not power the coil in the start position.

 

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

Garry

 

Guess we were posting at the same time.