Dieselcowboy 210 #1 Posted June 12, 2013 Why would my hydro temp light come on and stay on after mowing for awhile? I just did a filter and fluid change with full synthetic. Tnything I can do other than unhooking it? the trans case was really kinda hot enough I did not want to keep my hand on it very long. This is in a 520h Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,426 #2 Posted June 12, 2013 From the Demystification Guide page 3-38 Switch # 113193 is designed to close at 200 degrees F. Normal oil temperature is 180 degrees F. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #3 Posted June 12, 2013 Make sure the fins are not caked up with gunk. My 97 use to temp up when it was hot after a long run until I blew all the gunk out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieselcowboy 210 #4 Posted June 12, 2013 I just bought this one and I have givein it the works wash and cleaning before the first run. Everything around the trans is red again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #5 Posted June 13, 2013 Check the fan on the tranny. The center bolt may be loose allowing it to freewheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieselcowboy 210 #6 Posted June 13, 2013 Could the sensor be faulty? If the fan, oil, filter, and clean housing there is not really a reason to overheat on normal mowing right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieselcowboy 210 #7 Posted June 14, 2013 OK I mowed today until the hydro temp light come on. I brought our heat sensor home from work ( It has a lazer to point and sense). I hopped off and tested the trans case it was reading 120 degrees and the hydro filter was reading 130 degrees. I read somewhere on the forum that the hydro sensor is suppose to trigger at 200 degrees. Is that right? The engine oil filter was at 160 degrees. So I might be a sensor issue anyway. Anyone have ideas with this info on hand? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #8 Posted June 14, 2013 The sensor is touching the oil so I would say it is a faulty sending unit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieselcowboy 210 #9 Posted June 14, 2013 The sending unit being the sensor itself ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 665 #10 Posted June 14, 2013 The sensor is the bimetal thermocouple type. My understanding about it is that the 2 different metals expand and contract at different rates. This one is calibrated to close at 200 degrees allowing voltage to travel through and to the light causing it to illuminate. ANything under 200 should keep the light out. All you should need is a new sensor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #11 Posted June 14, 2013 Before you spend time searching for and invest money on buying a new sensor - remove the sensor and measure the contact resistance at room temperature. Place the temp sensor in water at about 170 or so and the resistance should be the same as room temperature. Increase the temp of the water until just before it boils. The temp switch resistance should now have toggled to opposite of what room temp was. If it was an open circuit at room temp, the contacts should be shorted at over 200F. Somewhere between 180 and 200F, the contact resistance should toggle. If the change happens in the range of 130 - 140F range, replace the switch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,332 #12 Posted June 14, 2013 Like said If you can test temp sensor. I did have one go bad and replace it. Expensive little dude. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
546cowboy 302 #13 Posted June 14, 2013 With the temps you listed I would say it is the sensor and the easiest way is to find a used one and replace it. When the light comes on does it go off if you put it in neutral and let it idle for a minute? I had one do that a couple times. That was after 2 hours of mowing with a 60" deck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites