qd-16 15 #1 Posted May 25, 2013 I have a 1985 310 model 21-10k801. This horse has the original 3 amp dual circuit stator with no voltage regulator. I am wanting to upgrade to a 10 or 15 amp stator , more common setup that uses a voltage regulator. My question is if I switch to the bigger amp stator can I still use my current flywheel or do I need to get a different one that from an engine with a 10 / 15 amp. stator?? This is a pic. of my flywheel that goes with the 3 amp. stator, the part number stamped on the inside of the flywheel is 47-300-01 Thanks for any info., Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #2 Posted May 28, 2013 Why not go back to the original thread where people are trying to help and ask. The ones helping may know the answer but may not see another thread Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 579 #3 Posted May 28, 2013 I've found you a thread here on RS that I think answers the question In the other thread I noticed you had the full set of magnets on the flywheel and that I'd read elswhere that it could be done i.e the 15 amp stator but here's some confirmation I found for you on RS. Hope this helps. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 15 #4 Posted May 29, 2013 Ah...thank you very much Andy! I have a 15 amp stator on its way, I already have a 15 amp regulator off a 73 8 horse commando parts tractor. I'm just gonna rewire for the 15 amp system and do away with the old 3 amp. I still would like to know why I was getting the huge voltage readings from the 3 amp stator!! Maybe Chuck will want the old 3 amp. stator as a "cadaver" to dissect ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 15 #5 Posted June 1, 2013 I have installed the 15 amp. stator and mounted the regulator. My question is: The b+ lead that comes out of the volt. regulator....can I wire that into the existing charge lead or do I need to do something different?? I have had the motor running with the new stator/ regulator and it charges at 14 volts (good). My concern is with the B+ lead from the regulator wired into the existing charge lead, I'm getting 12+ volts back to the voltage reg. with the engine off and the key in the off position. I didn't know if this was okay or not??...didn't want to "fry" anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 579 #6 Posted June 2, 2013 I know from my A-800 that (although its a Tecky engine) the 3 amp unregulated alternator and single diode was connected directly to the battery so maybe it's the case with yours. Normally for a coventional coil based ignition system the output from the regulator is only connected to the battery when the ignition switch is on. Chuck produced a pictoral circuit diagram in the other thread of the terminal it is connected to but check that your ignition switch is the same five tab type. I'm sure he'll chip in if I'm wrong. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 15 #7 Posted June 2, 2013 I didn't want to alter the original wiring if not needed....I must be getting lazy . In its original setup with the 3 amp stator and diode there would be 12 volts going to the diode from the battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #8 Posted June 2, 2013 QD, run the two stator wires directly to the AC terminals of the RR. It does not make any difference which stator wire goes to what AC terminal - completely interchangeable. toro parts shows your tractor should have a 103990 ignition switch. Bring a new 12 or 14 AWG wire from the B+ terminal of the RR unit to the "R" terminal of the ignition switch. Done. Give us a quick measurement of the AC volts at the stator leads. I'm guessing we are going to see somewhere in the 30 - 40 VAC range. As far as investigating the dual voltage coil, I would be happy to look at it but couldn't promise any quick investigation of what the issue might be. If you would like me to take a look sometime later this year, I should have a chance to combo your stator up to another flywheel and see what's up (if anything). Let me know and I can give you my address to ship it out. If you happen to have a chance to put the same stator into another similar tractor- I would encourage you to do so. You may find a different flywheel may produce the results you are looking for. I was hoping someone could have crossed the part # on the flywheel you have and let us know if that is in fact a valid flywheel / stator combination. Some additional interesting reading - 5 magnets? 6 magnets? who knows? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 15 #9 Posted June 2, 2013 I'm getting 32 AC volts from the new stator, thank you so much for the help guys!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #10 Posted June 3, 2013 perfect Al, good work - 32 volts ac gets chopped in half by the rectifier / regulator and gives approximately 16 volts of dc available to charge the battery. the regulator takes this 16 volts dc and "regulates" it down to around 14.5 - you have a functional charge system on the tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 15 #11 Posted June 3, 2013 Everything is working great! I ended up totally redoing the wiring but all is good...I learned about stators, charging systems, and how to use my multi meter so there was a flip side to all this. Thanks again Andy and Chuck!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites