Jeff-C175 7,195 #1 Posted May 23, 2013 I'm still waiting on my parts order of a new hub, woodruff keys, and set screws, but tonight I installed the new axle seals. It was MUCH easier than I thought it would be. I was fully prepared to spend more time cussin' than fixin', but the old seals popped right out and the new ones went in without a hitch. I used the hub as a 'slide hammer' to tap the new seals into place. Turned it around so the flat part of the hub faced the seal... slide-tap---slide-tap--- right in she went. This is a 1980 model and had the CR/SKF 11124 axle seals in it... could it have come from the factory with them? I tend to think they were replaced at some point before I got it in '92. What I noticed about the OEM seals that I replaced them with is that the OEMs have a 'double' sealing lip on them. The one with the garter spring of course, points in to the wet side, but there is also another lip that points OUT. Not a big lip, but it's obviously there for dirt exclusion. If I ever have to do this again and am forced to use the 11124 seals, which are half the thickness of the OEM 6449s, I would think about installing TWO of them, back to back. One on the inside to keep the oil in, one in REVERSE on the outside to keep dirt out. As far as the wobbly hub goes, I've ordered some 'Loctite 660' - "Quick Metal" - and will use that in the buggered up key slot on the axle. I'm also going to be drilling the hubs for a second set screw 90° around from the stock location and use two set screws since the shaft is somewhat worn. I just know it won't stay tight if I don't. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 210 #2 Posted May 23, 2013 Two tack welds on the end....... Then when you change it again you just grind the two tack welds. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #3 Posted May 23, 2013 As far as the wobbly hub goes, I've ordered some 'Loctite 660' - "Quick Metal" - and will use that in the buggered up key slot on the axle. A better idea is to have the keyway cut in the opposite side of the hub. Any machine shop can do it then put your second set screw in the new keyway. I've done it before and if you use the loctite you may end up cutting the hub off next time 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #4 Posted May 23, 2013 The 660 is going in the keyway on the axle slot, not in the hub, that will be brand new. There's no saving the old hub, it's bad... real bad... See: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #5 Posted May 23, 2013 Two tack welds on the end Even if you were successful in tack welding cast iron to steel, the movement in the wallowed out hub would quickly break the welds anyway... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkPalmer 80 #6 Posted May 23, 2013 I drilled and tapped the second set screw holes for the hubs on my 867 as I was real tired of them coming loose. It was an easy process I was able to do with a hand drill and tap, and you don't really have to tighten the second screw down super tight, so it shouldn't damage the axle. Best of all one month going, and the hubs have not come loose again. -Mark- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #7 Posted May 24, 2013 I'm not sure how long the set sets are that you ordered. The ones that do not go over the key have to be longer. I guess you know that the second set screw should be placed 90 degrees from the first. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #8 Posted May 24, 2013 I hadn't thought of that Don! The existing stock ones are pretty long, probably long enough, so I hope the replacements are at least as long as the stock ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #9 Posted May 24, 2013 I'm not sure how long the set sets are that you ordered. The ones that do not go over the key have to be longer. I guess you know that the second set screw should be placed 90 degrees from the first. Both set screws are the same lenght from the factory on mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #10 Posted May 25, 2013 Parts showed up today, didn't get the 660 yet though. So, I assembled the new hub without the 660 and snugged up the TWO setscrews on the new hub. Did a quick ride around in the rain and came back in, still tight! The old hub would have been loose again by that time. Sooooo, if it ever stops raining here on da Joisey Shaw, I'll cut the grass without the 660 and see how it goes. When the 'magic sauce' gets here I'll take it apart and spooge it up and call it done. I'm going to drill and tap the right side (original, not wobbly) hub for the second setscrew tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #11 Posted December 26, 2020 Wow, seven years already! I'm happy to report that the axle seals have not leaked again, and both hubs have not loosened again so I would call this repair a success. The loctite 660 did it's job! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbear853 58 #12 Posted December 27, 2020 (edited) On 5/23/2013 at 12:17 PM, Jeff-C175 said: Even if you were successful in tack welding cast iron to steel, the movement in the wallowed out hub would quickly break the welds anyway... I've used 3/32 nickel rod, never broke. In truth I probably would NOT weld the hub to the axle, but would first try to build up the wallowed out part in the slot, then work it with files or a cut off wheel in my Dremel tool if possible. I'm thinking a machinist could even cut me a new slot. But the nickel rod will work ... and hold. Edited December 28, 2020 by tbear853 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
