dsholler 54 #1 Posted May 20, 2013 Somehow I seem to have lost the outer spacer on my idler pulley.. this is toro part number 101757 Any reason I cannot just get a small washer or something else to put in there to act as a spacer? Any suggestions... (the lawn is in desperate need of mowing, as I have been away for a week and it has been raining all that time, with more to come, which means I want to try to do it tomorrow... ) Also, how smooth does that pulley need to be? The bearing rotates freely (this is on the outer/flat pulley that the back fo the belt runs on) but I can feel a little bit of friction when I put it on my finger and spin the pulley. Do I need to replace the bearing? Does anyone know what the replacement would be? The pulleys themselves are available, but they seem kinda expensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,526 #2 Posted May 20, 2013 Your local harware store should have a selection of bronze bushings. 3/4" ID x 7/8" or 1 " OD x 1/2" should get you going. If they only carry sizes longer than 1/2" you can easily cut it to size. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOWTIE 226 #3 Posted May 21, 2013 If your in a jam on the pulley bearing. you can pop the seals out, clean and re-grease them. then put the seals back in. I have done this a lot as routine maintenance every 3-4 years. bowtie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsholler 54 #4 Posted May 21, 2013 Bowtie.. having never taken apart a sealed bearing.. how do you get the seals out without doing damage to them or the housing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,176 #5 Posted May 21, 2013 Well, first be aware that there are 2 kinds of these bearings. The one bowtie is talking about has a 'rubber' type of seal around it, will be black and pliable allowing one to gently pop it out and clean and re-lube the balls and press it back again. The other has a thin metal covering with holes around it and - obviously - looks like metal, this shield is designed to allow grease or oil to get in while mounted, and removing this shield without damaging it isnt possible. I have had some luck with 'flushing' this type bearing with solvent or brake cleaner and allowing to sit soaking in oil for a bit and it can be used for a short time (til I can get a replacement) A bad bearing can easily be identified by rotating it in your fingers, if it feels rough turning, then its bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsholler 54 #6 Posted May 21, 2013 I assume it is possible to replace just the bearing without replacing the whole pulley... again, not quite sure of things... can i just knock it out and knock a new one in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,176 #7 Posted May 21, 2013 I assume it is possible to replace just the bearing without replacing the whole pulley... again, not quite sure of things... can i just knock it out and knock a new one in? Most likely - if so the pulley will have a squeeze clip (commonly called a 'circlip') holding the bearing in, remove the clip and knock the bearing out. The clip has the 2 little holes in it that you squeeze in to remove - and if you dont have the 'squeezer' tool they are a booger to remove. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsholler 54 #8 Posted May 21, 2013 yeah, I discovered that when I rebuilt my PTO.. I have a tool now last dumb question on this topic... is there a good online store for ordering bearings? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwayneGT 6 #9 Posted May 24, 2013 TSC also carries a selection of flat idler pulleys in various dia. for between $15-$20 bucks. they also have bushings and shoulder bushings. I used one on my snow thrower three years ago and haven't had any problems with them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsholler 54 #10 Posted May 24, 2013 Unfortunately down here in the NYC burbs there are no TSC stores.... I found a guy who does mower repair, it is a business that he inherited from his father and grandfather. He has drawers of small extra parts, and helped me look through them until we found a suitable bushing (it is a more complicated one with a set screw, but it does the job nicely). He did have a drawer full of Wheel Horse odds and ends, but none of the parts were obviously things I could make use of (he did have what appeared to be some NOS pulleys, and a ton of pins with pushbutton locks (the little studs that stick out on the side which retract when you push the button) that I had no idea what they were for. ) I did not have any time, or I would have gone through and seen if he had anything really valuable, like an axle bearing...I guess next time I need something I will make some time to look through his stuff. I decided that the bearing in that pulley was fine. I felt the resistance when I had it on the mule drive without the bushing, but spinning it on my finger it felt OK, so I am going to leave it be for now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,520 #11 Posted May 25, 2013 Your local hardware store should have a selection of bronze bushings. 3/4" ID x 7/8" or 1 " OD x 1/2" should get you going. If they only carry sizes longer than 1/2" you can easily cut it to size. Lowes and Home "Cheapo" have these bushings in their hardware departments. Not bronze but'll work if all you need are the pulley spacers. Lowes also has quite an inventory of stainless bolts, carriage bolts, washers, lock nuts, nuts. I use a lot of their SS hardware, Threadlocker Blue and Never-Seez® when repairing and / or rebuilding. My decks all have SS hardware. I sometimes replace hardware just 'cause I feel like it. My favorite hardware upgrade, from a forum member sometime ago, 7/16-20 x 1-1/2" long bolts and Threadlocker Blue where the threads are in the hubs. Screw 'em in from the back of the hub using a small flat washer. Mount your rear wheels using 7/16-20 open end acorn lug nuts (auto parts outlet). Makes hanging the rear tires a piece-of-cake (pic in my gallery). All my Horses now use lug nuts. :smile: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsholler 54 #12 Posted May 25, 2013 Tankman, I am always impressed with folks who keep changing stuff and making it better. Unfortunately for my WH, whatever attention I have in this area I lavish on my boat, so the tractor is in "I will figure out how to fix it when it breaks" mode. Fortunately, with the help of lots of folks from RedSquare, I have been able to tackle most everything (OK, I had someone else work on the carb....but that is it so far). Now if it would just stop raining, I could cut the grass... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,520 #13 Posted May 25, 2013 dsholler: I know the boat "problem", I'm from Long Island. The inlets, ocean and most of all, the Sound was my playground for many, many years. Retired, hibernating in Northeast Pennsy, fishin' isn't as good as the Long Island Sound! Raining, lots here. All day and still raining, we are over 1-1/2 inches just today. I got to mow 'd lawn soon. Once fixed and then maintained, Wheel Horse is No. 1 for sure. My 414-8 Magnum Kohler runs like dream. C'mon spring 'n summer! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites