Has anyone on here rigged up an oil filter / pump on a K series?

[Fordiesel69 214]

It is probably not worth the effort, but has anyone ever rigged up an electric oil pump / filter on any splash lube engine?  During the short 25 hour interval, there is still shreds of iron, and heavy metals that a filter would help to remove. 

[MarkPalmer 80]

Like you stated, probably not worth the effort or risk of developing external oil leaks where the quart or two of oil could be quickly lost before a problem is noticed.  Best defense is to just use a heavy duty 30W detergent oil, and change it frequently, like every 10-15 hours. 

 

-Mark-

[Fordiesel69 214]

Im not saying my engines shred more than others, but there is a reason a large engine can last 10,000 hours+, and our kohlers only last 2,000 ~3,000.  I am assuming it is not so much because of the lack of pressure lube, but more so due to particles eating away the engine parts.  I have never done a used-oil-analysis on my tractor oils, but I would assume they would be VERY VERY high wear metals.

[MarkPalmer 80]

It's one of those questions that could go in to the abyss as far as how much oil filtration helps extend small engine life.  Longer life likely has more to do with the method of cooling.  The K series singles had a rated 2000 hour lifespan.  Which if you run 50 hours a year gives you a 40 year lifespan- not too shabby, and I've seen many a well maintained Kohler do it.  Many of the (better quality) pressure lubed with filter modern small air cooled engines have, you guessed it, the same 2000 hour rated lifespan.  You notice the liquid cooled Kawasaki engines and the small Kubota and Yanmar diesels go significantly longer because the water cooling allows the engine to operate at a stable temperature.  There is more benefit to keeping the parts cool and stable so they don't wear as fast over having a method to clean up after the wear that has already happened. 

 

-Mark-

[Jim_M 178]

You could always rig up an offline filtration setup. Put a quick disconnect in the drain so you can pump the oil out of the pan, through a filter and back to the engine through the oil fill. You could run it when the tractor is off duty for the night, unplug it in the morning, check the oil and you're ready to go again.

 We install offline filtration on a lot of the industrial machines we build.

[SousaKerry 500]

When I was a kid I ripped a K-301 out of a Thermoking refer unit.  It had the biggest oil pan I ever saw on a Kohler and a remote oil tank,  I don't rember how it worked but I think it was just a tank hooked to one of the oi fill ports and the tank was at the level of the oil pan so that whatever the level of oil in the tank was the level in the pan.  I would imagine a small circulating pump and remote filter could be added to this setup.

[Tankman 3,515]

 

Like you stated, probably not worth the effort or risk of developing external oil leaks where the quart or two of oil could be quickly lost before a problem is noticed.  Best defense is to just use a heavy duty 30W detergent oil, and change it frequently, like every 10-15 hours. 

 

-Mark-

Exactly. My 12hp '68 Raider is still runnin' on its original engine. Air cleaners, carb cleaners, oil changes, general cleaning and PB Blaster on the carb linkage. Still runs like a top, so does the tranny, mower deck too.

Maintenance ahead of schedule is the key! :smile:

[MarkPalmer 80]

When I was a kid I ripped a K-301 out of a Thermoking refer unit.  It had the biggest oil pan I ever saw on a Kohler and a remote oil tank,  I don't rember how it worked but I think it was just a tank hooked to one of the oi fill ports and the tank was at the level of the oil pan so that whatever the level of oil in the tank was the level in the pan.  I would imagine a small circulating pump and remote filter could be added to this setup.

 

I haven't run across one of these K301 setups, but the 7 HP K161 was a very popular reefer power unit from the 1950's through late 60's before diesel powered units took their place.  Some of these had what looked like a huge oil pan, but it was just a casting made wider to give the compressor body a base to mount to. The actual oil sump was the same volume as any other K161. 

 

-Mark-

[sorekiwi 761]

A big K181 pan:

 

[Keith 21]

Maybe you can use a magnet to trap iron ?

[Tankman 3,515]

 

Maybe you can use a magnet to trap iron ?

I was just thinking the same thing. a magnetic drain plug!

The old Kohlers I have will be around after I'm gone. They are serviced! i guess being retired, a lot of spare time without a lot to do. I share my free time with the Herd.

[bitten 133]

From what I have read, use a non-detergent oil. It will allow any particles to sink to the bottom of the pan.

[MarkPalmer 80]

From what I have read, use a non-detergent oil. It will allow any particles to sink to the bottom of the pan.

 

It's an age old six-of-one-half argument, I probably just should have said to use oil from whatever color of bottle you like best 

 

-Mark-

[Forest Road 594]

For the motors that seem to go an go....

Try a magnetic oil drain plug from David Kirk

http://www.kirkengines.com/

[W9JAB 156]

Mark Palmer nailed it, it’s all about cooling, oil’s lubrication properties break down with heat that’s a given.

 

As you may know, I have installed a temp. probe tee'd into the drain.

It’s been on for two years now and the oil temp has never gotten over 160f That’s on an

8 H.P.

 

I also have an hour meter, to remind myself to change the oil every 10 hours and service the air cleaner at the same time.

 

I have been working with small engines for over fifty years, and EVERY major, small engine frailer, I have seen, has been oil related.

 

Also running the motor at full speed, and keeping the fan screen clean, will extend the life of your engine.

[Keith 21]

Oil coolers need special attention on a splash lubed motor to keep the proper oil level.  The cooling setup would be simpler when the crankshaft is pressure lubed.  If the pickup was higher in the sump that might help to prevent the pump from sucking the sump dry.  An oil level switch would be good.   It the motor were stationary as on a generator set or air compressor these considerations are easier to manage.   There is a Yahoo group where the goal is to modify low cost vertical shaft motors to horizontal shaft.  Those are splash lubed, when the motor is set upright the bearings need to be fed with a pump.   

[can whlvr 991]

i agree,change the oil more often then 20-25 hours,i try and do it 10-15 hours,and the air filter at the same time

[woodbird007 16]

new air filter every 10-15 or blow out with compressed air?

[Jim_M 178]

You'll go broke changing air filters every 10 hours. Blow it out if it needs it and replace it when it no longer blows out.