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Z-man

Loaded Rear Tires with Wheel Weights??Washer fluid

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Z-man

Hello All,

I'm looking for you opinion on filling the rear tires 23x8.5-12 w/double stacked weights

with washer fluid. I've heard it's better than you calcium and safer the anti-freeze

for our beloved Boxer "Max" :whistle:

grandmasbirthday08029Resized.jpg

Also , with the fluid and the weights together

bad for the axle? I'm not sure how much they weigh, guessing 40lbs a piece x 4.

B)

C-125WheelWeights002Resized.jpg

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Duff

That is one handsome pup, Brian!

As to the antifreeze thing, check with a marina if there are any near you. They now make an environmentally safe antifreeze. The place that winterizes my boat (Chevy V6 in a Mercruiser set-up) loads the motor with this new stuff and come spring all I have to do is back into the water and go - the freshwater flushes out the 'freeze safely and all is good to go. I suggest this route only because, IMHO, most antifreezes have some anticorrosive qualities that might save your rims.

I'm sure the pros will chime in here shortly with probably better info, though.

Cheers!

Duff B)

Edit: Don't know about the weight issue on the axles - that's where the pros can be far more helpful than this rookie!

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big mike

I have used RV anti freeze.It is available at the big box stores and is on sale about this time of year.It is non toxic,non corrosive and biodegradble.Another option is Rim Guard

http://www.rimguard.biz/

I had 2 26-12-12s filled and was 30.00.It is also non corrosive and non toxic,it is a byproduct of the sugar beet refining process.

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rustbucket

my 653 had calcium filled front tires and well lets just say i cant use those rims anymore. the calcium over the life of the tractor ate threw the metal and it isnt to friendly to rubber if i recall. ainti freeze is good ive seen some people by me use alcohol as in the rubbing type but less water in it. either wind sheild washer fluid or aintifreeze is good. i just use weights and chains in the winter and i have 2 tractors with just weights on their back wheels one with ag's the other with turf's

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big mike

The main reason I load the is it is reasonably priced compared to cast iron weights and it also puts the weights directly over the tread.

I have found most traction issues can be solved with weight.....I very seldom have traction problems with my feet B)

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GlenPettit

I had a set of rear tires filled with "Beet Juice", seriously.

Sugar Beet Juice is a thick molasses, and weighs 12#/gal (Salt Brine is 10#, Water 8#, and anti-freeze is 9#), Beet Juice less likely to rust than antifreeze and is actually is good for the enviroment. It's Michigan grown/made, many Farm Tire sources are using this, it is heavy and costs the same as Salt Brine (see 'Rim-Guard' site above). To fill my two rear tires was $75, since it doesn't really freeze it can be 100% filled, 6 gal each is 72# of extra weight, and in theory, a small hole or crack is self sealing, in tubes.

If you use RV antifreeze, you can fill it yourself: lay the tire on its side, remove valve stem & attach 1/4" clear plastic hose, stick other end of 2' hose in gal jug of antifreeze, knell down on tire to expell some air, when you release it sucks in the antifreeze, keep repeating (3 knees/gal), only fill about 80% = 5 gal = 45#. Also, NAPA Auto Stores sell a special valve to do this, $12, not worth it.

Michigan Glen

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oldandred

I had a set of rear tires filled with "Beet Juice", seriously.

Sugar Beet Juice is a thick molasses, and weighs 12#/gal (Salt Brine is 10#, Water 8#, and anti-freeze is 9#), Beet Juice less likely to rust than antifreeze and is actually is good for the enviroment. It's Michigan grown/made, many Farm Tire sources are using this, it is heavy and costs the same as Salt Brine (see 'Rim-Guard' site above). To fill my two rear tires was $75, since it doesn't really freeze it can be 100% filled, 6 gal each is 72# of extra weight, and in theory, a small hole or crack is self sealing, in tubes.

If you use RV antifreeze, you can fill it yourself: lay the tire on its side, remove valve stem & attach 1/4" clear plastic hose, stick other end of 2' hose in gal jug of antifreeze, knell down on tire to expell some air, when you release it sucks in the antifreeze, keep repeating (3 knees/gal), only fill about 80% = 5 gal = 45#. Also, NAPA Auto Stores sell a special valve to do this, $12, not worth it.

Michigan Glen

glenn may be thats why the dogs next door love to see cut grass and lay around just waiting for me to get offf and take a break come over and lick the tires HECK and I though the liked me what a let down. B)

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Rollerman

I have used the windsheild washer fluid with good results...but then the tires have only been filled 2 years now.

I have not seen any signs of rust yet...but then by the time the rims do rust through this tractor will already be a parts machine. :whistle:

I do prefer wheel weights though...the washer fluid sloshes some & seems like it could cause a strain... B)

I also like mounting tires & rims...then hanging the weight on them.

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Z-man

Thanks everyone, the consensus seems to be to stay away of adding liquid. I'll try it this winter with the double weights and see how it goes. Worst case would be to pick up a

second set of wheels and add fluid, swap over the weights and hide them in the corner

of the garage from my wife. B)

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nylyon

Brian, is this the first year plowing snow with the horses? Instead of filling the tires, all you'll need is a set of chains you should be able to plow from the top of the driveway down with ease.

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Z-man

No, last winter was. I had 1 set of cast iron, B) , any know what they weight?

and V-bar chains. It did fine 90% of the time even up that little hill.

I want to be able to push MOUNDS of snow just for fun :banana: , if you know what I mean. :whistle:

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GlenPettit

Weight, weight, weight . . . is everything when pushing snow or dirt [weight = traction].

A pair of rear wheel weights is about 100#, filled tires adds another 100#, plus yourself; now you can do anything. Weight on the front wheels will greatly help steering, even just 10#/wheel. My C-160 has 500# of extra weight (and lug tires) and nothing stops her (I'm also very careful about not getting myself stuck). Every year I average pulling at least one neighbors car/truck out of their snow bank or ditch with this mighty tractor, they know I can do this so I get the emergency calls.

Michigan Glen

Notice how the big highway snow trucks will first plow the roads with a full truckload of salt (traction), then go back again to spread the salt (wished it were sand instead).

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traktorkidd7/30/93

Last year i plowed with my C-165 8 speed with a set of chains(no v bar) and a set of 50 pound weights

but this year i have 75 pound weights and a set of chains for my C-175 Auto

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Z-man

Hey Chris where did you find the 75lb weights.... B)

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traktorkidd7/30/93

I dont know??? B) some nice guy that lives in Woodbury

I got a good deal, maybe you know him :whistle:

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Curmudgeon

I kinda like iron

weighted.jpg

You may not see it too well, but there are several hundred pounds of suitcase weights on the back. Probably around a hundred in each rear wheel, close to 200 on the front, not to mentiong the mid-weights, and just think, this is BEFORE I started using front wheel weights. Total weight, oh hard telling, original times 3?? Maybe more?

Yes, I do know how much it costs to twist a hub on an axle!!!!!!!!!! B)

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