Forest Road 594 #1 Posted April 12, 2013 Hi guys I have a 200 hour Magnum 14 on my 314H. It works as it should. Does just about everything I ask of it. The only time it struggles is the two stage blower. Raise your hand if your surprised. I love the simplicity of the Kohler singles! I've contemplated buying another Onan. But without failure another member's 520 recently chucked another valve seat! I've been reading up on David Kirks website about his built 10hp Kohler. I've also been in touch with a few members here concerning this subject as well. Here's the dilemma should I tear down and modify a perfectly healthy Magnum 14 or a k - 341 16hp k have from an old service truck? I know one is electronic vs points ignition. In the end I plan to have a slightly modified motor. I'm aiming for 20 - 30% increase in power. Motor heads please chime in! Even if you think I'm outta my mind. Just like my wife. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #2 Posted April 12, 2013 Here's the k-341. They told me it runs. For the price I didn't bother to test it! Now to find a shop in the North Jersey / NY area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #3 Posted April 13, 2013 if the 16 can be made to fit a wheelhorse,id go with the 16,i have both of those motors,a 14 magnum and a 16 k,both are great motors but since you are gonna work on it it may as well be the biggest and best motor kohler ever built (imo)but you have to see if the oil pan and crank will work on a horse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 605 #4 Posted April 13, 2013 You will need to change your wiring and you may need to change the stator that engine may only put out enough power to charge the battery. Check the size of the crank. I believe you can switch the oil pan with the 14 Magnum should be an easy fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diesel cowboy 263 #5 Posted April 13, 2013 If the pan and crank on the 16 will fit your tractor you should be able to take the tin work, starter, flywheel, stator, mag, dipstick tube, and bearing plate off of your magnum and bolt it all onto the k series. I had a 16 k-series that I picked up that had a lot of missing and broken external parts and a magnum 12 that had blown up so I took the spec numbers of both and went through the parts books and found that the bearing plate, gasket, and the flywheel were the same part number on the k series that was set up for a magneto ignition as the newer magnum engines. The only thing I had to do to the k series block was make a plug for the points plunger so it wouldnt leak. The only other thing I can think of that might be different is depending on the year of the magnum, I've run into a couple that I rebuilt that had a welch plug in the hole to seal the shaft for the camshaft and a semetrical bearing plate gasket instead of the one with the lump sticking out the side to cover that hole. Or if you want to keep the magnum intact you could look for another one that had blown up or needed to be rebuilt and take the parts off of that one. Hope this helps. Stewart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,976 #6 Posted April 13, 2013 The K-341 for sure. Nothing at all wrong with contact points for an engine turning 3600rpm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buckshot 1 15 #7 Posted April 13, 2013 I would go for the K-341. But then I am partial to the K-series. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #8 Posted April 13, 2013 Thanks for the replies! My understanding is that the bearing plate is on the flywheel side. How would that affect the pto side of the motor? Did WH spec a larger bearing? The oil dip stick and fill is below the carb. No provisions for a standard tube. The oil pan appears to be correct. I'll be comparing it to a friend's WH soon. The crank is 1-1/8 x 4 Not sure about the stator. I know I'll have to rewire the ignition. Bosch blue, point saver, & electric pump w plates from Kirks. I doubt the head has ever been off! Theres hardly any trace of carbon deposits. Cylinder bore appears flawless!Looks like I should be fine;) I'd really like to port and polish and have the head cut down. My hope is that the bore is fine and I can complete this without the major expense of a complete reboring and crank job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 605 #9 Posted April 13, 2013 You will need a Wheel Horse oil pan as they have two tapped holes in the bottom of the pan for mounting the left side of the engine. The bearing should be the same in the bearing plate. The stator mount could be different requiring a different plate to mount up a 15 amp stator. I think someone said that some plates had a three post stator mount there the 15 amp requires four. The number of flywheel magnets could also be different. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #10 Posted April 14, 2013 Thanks Don The cylinder still has swirl markings from the factory. It has marks from the rings. id assume it hasn't been run in several years. As for carbon buildup it's just a lite coating. I doubt this engine has more than 100 hours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #11 Posted April 14, 2013 I just removed the flywheel. As suspected there is no charging system. This motor was used on a jump start generator. I'll need a flywheel and stator. If anyone has parts they'd like to sell please PM me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites