Butch 194 #1 Posted April 12, 2013 Now that we have the blades off how do you sharpen them? They're supposed to have a beveled edge, not a knife edge. I have a dual wheel grinder but can't seem to get the blade on the wheel because the other wheel interferes with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
855ownerJoel 32 #2 Posted April 12, 2013 I put them in a vise and use a hand grinder. Make sure they are balanced side to side though or you will have a vibration. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GlenPettit 1,714 #3 Posted April 12, 2013 I sharpen the blades on only the left wheel, a bevel is best, just try and keep the angle shallow, about 45º, so there is plenty of metal behind the cutting edge to support it. Otherwise, with a low angle (30º) when you hit a small stone a lot of metal will chip off. I use the dual (6-blade) system, with 3 Gator Blades above the regular blades, and at 45º to them, equals 12 grass cutting edges. "Make sure they are balanced side to side though or you will have a vibration." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decksetter 50 #4 Posted April 12, 2013 The sharper it is, the faster it will dull. I've heard of people sharpening it and then dulling the very point off with a file before they put the blades back on, they say it will hold the edge a lot longer that way. I haven't tried it yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,768 #5 Posted April 12, 2013 I have always used a file on my blades, when you grind you are removing too much metal and may overheat it. As "decksetter said you don't want it too sharp or the edge is likely to chip off. Take a look at new blades, they are not knife sharp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #6 Posted April 12, 2013 My mower wasn't cutting worth a damn so I pulled the deck today to sharpen the 3 blades. And to my surprise? Two blades were missing! Wow. I couldn't believe it. I can't believe I didn't torque them down tight based on the size of the nut and shaft. I did manage to find 1 blade in a bunch of leaves I cut up with the deck. I couldn't find the other blade or any of the hardware. So off to Ebay for new blades and hardware. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #7 Posted April 13, 2013 i use an angle grinder,dont do too much so it doesnt heat up the blade,then balance on a nail nailed into something vertical and place the blade on the nail through the hole,this works well for home balancing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 586 #8 Posted April 15, 2013 I use my bench grinder. I made a jig to hold the blade at the right angle about 45 degrees. I also do not sharpen them knife sharp or they do chip quite easily. I don't spend alot of time on them so they don't get hot spots. I sharpen once in the spring and then half way through the season. Mostly to clean up any chips or nicks on the blade.They seem to mow well. It also give me a chance to check them out for cracks and wear. Plus I get a good look at the deck to head off any rust spots or cracks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrader 433 #9 Posted April 16, 2013 I use a cheap grinding disc that goes on a drill, and an even cheaper plastic balancing top. I used a bench grinder for a while, but it is too aggressive (or I am too slow to react!) I think the balancing is as important as the sharpening. Out of balance blades will ruin bearings and spindles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #10 Posted April 16, 2013 I'm gonna try my bench grinder again. I like the idea of the file but that sounds too labor intensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Road-Track 39 #11 Posted April 16, 2013 Not if you have a big flat bastard! A couple of quick swipes and you are ready to go with no sparks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DOC in Kentucky 178 #12 Posted April 17, 2013 I sharpen my blades every eight cuttings. Now I cut at 4 different angles vertical, horizontal, right 90 degrees and then left 90 degrees. This way I know when my eighth cut has been completed and then it's time to sharpen the blades. I also have 2 sets so I can continue weekly mowings and sharpen the other set at my leisure. The neighbors think I am nuts and too particular but they also think my lawn is one of the best in the "hood". 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #13 Posted April 17, 2013 I have a 1.5 horsepower mower blade grinder. It has a 12 inch wheel. I sharpen my blades to a knife edge, but I sharpen them very often. I believe sharp blades make a huge difference when it comes to cut quality. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #14 Posted April 17, 2013 I have a 1.5 horsepower mower blade grinder. It has a 12 inch wheel. I sharpen my blades to a knife edge, but I sharpen them very often. I believe sharp blades make a huge difference when it comes to cut quality. I have read that sharp blades help prevent diseases from entering the cut cut edges of grass. But I also read that having real sharp blades can chip which will ruin a blade quicker. The proper blade sharpening method no matter how you obtain it is the 45 degree bevel cut on one side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #15 Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) I have a 1.5 horsepower mower blade grinder. It has a 12 inch wheel. I sharpen my blades to a knife edge, but I sharpen them very often. I believe sharp blades make a huge difference when it comes to cut quality. I have read that sharp blades help prevent diseases from entering the cut cut edges of grass. But I also read that having real sharp blades can chip which will ruin a blade quicker. The proper blade sharpening method no matter how you obtain it is the 45 degree bevel cut on one side. I have never had a problem with chipped blades. Like Doc I sharpen my blades every 8 cuttings. And the blade grinder I have is a $1000 oregon blade grinder (I did not pay near that much!). The way it is designed doesn't temper the steel if you move the blade back and forth quick enough, therefore I don't really lose the edge after a 8 cuttings but I like it razor sharp. I also use the balancing on a nail trick. Edited April 17, 2013 by CRE1992 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,952 #16 Posted April 17, 2013 I use a flap wheel on a 4.5" grinder that works pretty well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,343 #17 Posted April 18, 2013 I'm gonna try my bench grinder again. I like the idea of the file but that sounds too labor intensive. Not if you have a big flat bastard! A couple of quick swipes and you are ready to go with no sparks. Keep us posted, Butch. I got a bench grinder for Christmas a couple of years ago, and I'm still trying to get the hang of sharpening my mower blades with it. I'm back to using a file for now, which works, but I'd really like to see some tips for getting them done with the grinder -- much faster, I'm sure, plus I like sparks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyattrrp 59 #18 Posted April 18, 2013 I sharpen at start of season and at least once mid season using a bench grinder. Rest the back edge of blade on a block nthe bench in fron t of the wheel and slowly tilt the blade edge into the spinning wheel at approximately the 45deg angle originally on a new blade. It cuts a slight arc (radius of wheel) into the edge while moving the blade back n forth along the cutting edge, being careful not to overheat the edge turning it blue. I like a razor sharp edge but I do not hit any rocks as the lawn is well established. The sharp edge gives a clean cut ot the grass tips rather than ripping the top off with a dull blade, leaving brown tips that take longer to heal and can be visible tan tips. Every sharpening I ues a cheapo circular pyramid balancer like this one linked here http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200273174_200273174 since it fits all diamaeter blade holes and it is near frictionless when the blade balances on a spike tip sticking up into the inside fo the cone from the base. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmjYYn8lr94 Even a plastic one of these works well. Never a vibration if you grind each end until they balance perfectly Wyatt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #19 Posted April 23, 2013 I tried my grinding wheel and had no luck. I didn't end up with that 45 degree bevel. By the time I was done I was in between a bevel and a knife blade. This will definitely make the blade wear faster and chip easier. I'll have to shop around for a big flat file and try that next. Only problem is that the 45 degree angle is so far gone I don't know how long it will take to get it back with a flat file. I do have a dremel attachment for mower blades but it pretty much wears out in no time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #20 Posted April 23, 2013 I have a 1.5 horsepower mower blade grinder. It has a 12 inch wheel. I sharpen my blades to a knife edge, but I sharpen them very often. I believe sharp blades make a huge difference when it comes to cut quality. I think its a personal preference thing honestly. I just happen to agree with Charles. I have been in the landscaping industry for about the last 10 to 15 years. The rule as it was taught to me is sharpen them like a knife edge and sharpen them every 8 hours of cutting time. Maybe I was taught wrong by the old timer I learned from but it has served me very well. Thick grass mows much better and sharp blades definitely make grass blades happier because of the clean cut. Frayed grass blades promote disease as was steated earlier. Like I said personal preference. I know people that have never sharpened their mower blades. They say it makes no difference to them and it takes too much time to pull the deck off their Simplicity. Their mower still cuts but if you get close to the grass you can see the rips in the ends 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodbird007 16 #21 Posted April 23, 2013 I've had good luck sharpening on a 1" wide stationary belt sander. 80 grit, 45 degree wood block jig on the sander base. About three quick passes per side, then check balance with dome balancer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503 #22 Posted April 23, 2013 I tried my grinding wheel and had no luck. I didn't end up with that 45 degree bevel. By the time I was done I was in between a bevel and a knife blade. This will definitely make the blade wear faster and chip easier. I'll have to shop around for a big flat file and try that next. Only problem is that the 45 degree angle is so far gone I don't know how long it will take to get it back with a flat file. I do have a dremel attachment for mower blades but it pretty much wears out in no time. Just put the 45 degree bevel on the sharp edge that is left for about 1/16". This is common on fine hand tools and is called a micro bevel. About a 1 degree difference in the two for a few thou resulting in a durable but long lasting sharp edge. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites