Bought a Grader Blade, have a question.

[dbartlett1958 96]

When I made this link I used 1/4" flat stock. Drilled 3/8" holes and used 3/8" x 2" bolts for pins. Installed them in the link from opposite directions and needed only 1/4" of offset in the link. Welded the bolt heads top and bottom to the link. Cut the threads off the bolts and ground a good taper on the pin. Drilled small holes for the spring pin perpendicular to the link and put a good chamfer on both sides of the small holes. Now I know where the holes are and can install the spring pins blind.

 

With 3/8" flat stock you may only need 1/8" of offset.

 

Garry

Garry,

 

Thanks for your advice. The tips on chamfering the holes is a good one I will employ.

 

David

[SgtBob 27]

I will offer this up to David first ..................  I have a spare lift link from a #79351 grader blade that is no longer needed.  It has seen little use and is in very good condition.   I will put it in the mail for $22 if your interested.  If you would like to see some photos of it send me a PM with your direct email and I will get them to you.

 

Bob

[Forest Road 594]

The 50" grader is my most beloved attachment for our little red tractors. I have close to 1/2 mile of shared driveway I grade once or twice a year. I've used it to cut and level parts of our property, cleaned up after a couple septic installations for friends and family. It's awesome!

I was at a green dealer a few years back looking at a 314-8. The salesman kept trying to push towards a nice new x-400 or x500. One simple question shut him up " can I get a mid mount grader blade? " he then showed me a $12000 x700 to which I replied my lil $500 red tractor does a fine job.

I use a straight piece of bar stock as well. It's also used on my plow. I drilled a couple different holes in mine so I could experiment a bit. Don't get hung up on bending an offset in the bar. If you have access to a welder I strongly suggest welding a pin in the top. And drill the hole for the keeper so you can do it from under the tractor.

Forest,

 

I had planned to weld a pin on each ene. Is there any reason I should just weld on one end and leave a hole for a bolt on the other?

 

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

David

Unfortunately my tractors are 200 miles north at the getaway. Therefor I can't measure anything for you. I know the top pin is welded and check the orientation of the pin hole so it can be installed from under the tractor w needle nose pliers. I even bent the keeper pin 45 degrees so I could get in there. As for the lower pin I experimented with a bolt originally. Once I settled on a length I welded a pin in place.

[dbartlett1958 96]

Got the grader blade painted up, and made a replaceable cutting edge for it. I will probably never wear this out, but if I should, I can remove it and flip it over and go some more, saving the edge of the blade.

 

Got a chance to play with it a little today, taking off a few high spots in the driveway for a trial run. I will wait until the frost is fully gone before I do any more, but sure had fun while it lasted.

 

[Rock farmer 41]

That looks real nice Dave!

Maybe I should paint mine!

I put mine on my 520H today. I had previously used it on my 1276 with a manual lift. That down pressure is impressive! And it will stop the tractor! But I must say I think the manual lift with the height knob adjustment just seemed better. Maybe some sort of turnbuckle to precisely set the height when it's down all the way would be best.

Ideally, I'd like to set the blade edge to a level line between the front and rear wheels when I'm on the machine.

I only ran it briefly. Still some experimenting to be done!

Joe

[dbartlett1958 96]

That looks real nice Dave!

Maybe I should paint mine!

I put mine on my 520H today. I had previously used it on my 1276 with a manual lift. That down pressure is impressive! And it will stop the tractor! But I must say I think the manual lift with the height knob adjustment just seemed better. Maybe some sort of turnbuckle to precisely set the height when it's down all the way would be best.

Ideally, I'd like to set the blade edge to a level line between the front and rear wheels when I'm on the machine.

I only ran it briefly. Still some experimenting to be done!

Joe

Joe,

 

I know what you mean about the manual vs hydraulic lift/control.

 

The down pressure is a little touchy with the hydraulics, but after a while I got the hang of it. (Sort of)  It is just like any other sport requiring hand-eye coordination.  Practice, practice, then more practice.

 

And after tearing up part of the driveway , I get to practice!