red tractor 0 #1 Posted March 10, 2013 Hi Red Square ! does anyone know the steps for replacing drive belt? looks like the right side floor board need to come off. I can see the bolts ,but it looks like there is part of floor board behind frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 23,249 #2 Posted March 10, 2013 Yep the floor board needs to come off. While your in there check the idler pulley, they tend to get negleted. Mike.......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
red tractor 0 #3 Posted March 10, 2013 Sparky Thank You for the info: I seen that there was a lip on rear of floor boards & wasn't sure they would slide out...Thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #4 Posted March 10, 2013 The drive belt guard comes off first. I have circled the belt guard fasteners in yellow (remove completely) and the footrest clamps (loosen) in orange: The tractor pictured above is a 1990 312-8 with a manual PTO clutch on a Magnum 12. That should be the only major difference between it and your 315-8. Once those two pieces are out of the way, the idler pulley will be visible. Remove the bolt securing the idler pulley to the clutch arm and remove the pulley. Do not bend the tab above the pulley to get the belt off. The lower belt guide on the engine can be loosened and dropped enough for the belt to clear. I believe the top bracket (bolted to the engine just above the drive pulley) for the rod that holds the PTO clutch may interfere with belt removal/installation. (sorry - can't remember) If you can't get the belt past the guide on the bracket, remove the bracket from the engine. Remove the belt from the tranz pulley first, then the engine pulley. Install new belt on engine pulley first, then tranz pulley, and reinstall idler pulley last. Depress clutch pedal to make installing the idler pulley easier. Once belt is installed and under tension, adjust the lower guide at the engine pulley so it is 1/8" away from the belt. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #5 Posted March 10, 2013 Thanks Terry for the great pictures. I have to do my 520 and looks to be about the same except for the hydro fan getting the way! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #6 Posted March 10, 2013 Very similar procedure, Don. The hydro fan can be "worked around" without removal, but removing the right rear tire seems to make it a little easier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
red tractor 0 #7 Posted March 11, 2013 TT Hey ! Thanks ! that will help a lot. some real good pic's I info . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
red tractor 0 #8 Posted March 11, 2013 Say Terry! What year is the tractor in the top of your post? are the angled wheels on the front stock? "nice" tractor.. Thanks again for your help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #9 Posted March 11, 2013 Say Terry! What year is the tractor in the top of your post? are the angled wheels on the front stock? "nice" tractor.. Thanks again for your help! That began as a 1968 Charger 9, but ended up with parts from many different years/models. I built the narrow front end. Here's a very recent post: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
