Seat Springs

[Tankman 3,523]

A few of my 's have coil springs that rest on the fender assembly.

I don't like it but, livin' with it.

Today I decided to try a simple fix (or I'm tryin' somethin' at least).

I slid shrink tubing around the spring and tighten it up with my heat gun.

We'll see. Anyone ever try this simple fix? :-)

[rmaynard 16,343]

I found that shrink tubing will crack over time. I've never had it on seat springs, but I did have it on a wiring harness that was attached to a pivot point on a motorized lift.

[GlenPettit 1,717]

I slid a 1/4"ID rubber gas line around the first bottom coil of the seat springs, to reduce damage & noise.

Seems to have worked, 6 years now.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

One possibility:

http://www.plastidip.com/industrial_solutions/Plasti_Dip

Some tractors had a decal applied to the fender at the spring contact area.

Maybe you could apply some heavy gauge clear vinyl decal material to the fender.

If anyone cares - the coil springs were added because the heavier seats could falsely activate the operator presence switch.

[Tankman 3,523]

Terry:

Like the plastic dip idea. Think I'm goin' to try that! Thanks.

[Duff 206]

I cut two small squares of sheet rubber material like many people use on the footrests (300/400/500's) and glue them onto the seat pans under where the springs land. Not terribly unattractive and very effective!

Duff :thumbs:

[dbartlett1958 99]

Mine is a worker for now so not an issue, but someday I will remember this thread. Great ideas!

[Tankman 3,523]

I slid a 1/4"ID rubber gas line around the first bottom coil of the seat springs, to reduce damage & noise.

Seems to have worked, 6 years now.

I was thinking along the same line. Perhaps a small diameter tube like the ones used for fish tank pumps. The coil springs are approx 1/8" Ø.

I did put the shrink wrap around the first coil. I think I'll go right over it with small small diameter tubing.

With all the shot blasting, sanding, painting, I would hate to see my fender assembly all scratched even though hard to see with the seat in the down position.

[IronDuke 4]

I did a simple fix were i got red duck tape and taped the bottome coil of it good, and it got rid of the noise and stopped the scratching

[GlenPettit 1,717]

•• I did try the clear 1/8"ID fish tank air hose, even when warm it was too hard to slip on; but the thicker 1/4"ID clear hose did go on easily, but it didn't last but a few months before failing.

•• The1/4"ID gas line hose is strongly reinforced and of high quality rubber, but costs the most (no cracking when cold). Easy to slip on when it is very warm, like well over 110º (use a heat gun or hair dryer).

•• Did consider using large rubber "furniture casters" bolted under and to the fender pan, but the gas line method has worked very well. This rubber does not eliminate scratches from the dust/sand that gets under it, but greatly reduces any noticed damage.

•• I think the plastic dip might be much too thin a layer for the seat weight-pressure and movement under the Spring, all plastic gets weak & fails, especially when hot & cold.

•• The self-adhesive rubber squares, like Duff suggested above, seems like a great, inexpensive and simple fix.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

There is a clear urethane tape about 4" wide that is used on the leading edge of aircraft wings that we used on vehicles to stop stone chipping of the paint. Bet that would work if you can find it. Try body and paint shops.

Garry

[Cable 180]

I have used shrink tubing successfully for a year now but I do expect it fail. Also I keep a cotton hand towel sitting at the contract points on the fender pan. Shrink tubing is just not strong enough for that application. Duff's idea sounds the best to me.