caseybgilbert 4 #1 Posted January 30, 2013 I have either an 82 or 83 (unsure which one but the 3-point hitch controls are down low so it is not an 84) C-195. I just got it running recently after sitting up for about 8 years. It runs great until it warms up then it has trouble at high RPMs. Due to browsing older posts on here and my own troubleshooting, I have narrowed the problem down to the mechanical fuel pump. I have found a fuel pump online that fits the KT19 but it says nothing about fitting the KT19S, which my C-195 has in it. Can anyone help me out as to whether or not this will fit mine? It says it is a direct replacement for part # 52-559-03-S. I have been unable to find a parts diagram for this motor so I don't exactly know the original part number for the pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #2 Posted January 30, 2013 :WRS: The "S" just means electric start. The pumps should be the same on the KT-17, M-18 & 20, etc. You can also get kits to "rebuild" some of the aluminum pumps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
caseybgilbert 4 #3 Posted January 30, 2013 Thank you very much. I'm new to being around Wheel Horse machines. I just "inherited" this C-195 and a Bronco 14 Automatic as well as a few accessories for them. The Bronco hasn't been used in over 15 years so it will probably require quite a bit of work to get into working order. I'm sure I'll be on here quite a bit in the future as my plans are to get both Horses running like they should. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #4 Posted January 30, 2013 It sounds like you're off to a great start. Be prepared to be asked for some pictures. :handgestures-thumbup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
caseybgilbert 4 #5 Posted February 3, 2013 I just got a new fuel pump today in the mail. It is a plastic one but as long as it works. I'll hang onto the aluminum pump and rebuild it in case this plastic one fails. Also got a new condenser, breaker point, push rod, and plugs. Ready to install the parts tomorrow and see how it runs. Hopefully setting the spark timing won't be too difficult on this engine. My next task will be trying to figure out why it keeps throwing the drive belt for the belly mower...and finding some new deck rollers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #6 Posted February 3, 2013 Good deal! If you don't have a service manual, this link will get you one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
caseybgilbert 4 #7 Posted February 4, 2013 Thanks for the link. I installed all of the new parts today. It now runs like a new machine, until it warms up. It sputters and stumbles at full throttle when warmed up, especially when a load is applied to it. Very little improvment over what is was prior to replacing the fuel pump, condenser, breaker point, and push rod. However, it does run much smoother when cold than it did before. Do you think the spark timining is still a little off? I set it using an ohmmeter as I do not have a timing light. I may tinker with the spark timing more tomorrow and if that doesn't help, I will disassemble the carb, clean it, then put it back together with new gaskets, etc. I have already ruled out the coil (it tested good) and the plug wires. If it isn't the spark timing, then I think the problem has to be in the carb somewhere. It seems like it is starved for fuel at high rpms, but only once it has warmed up? :confusion-scratchheadblue: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #8 Posted February 4, 2013 Even though the coil tested good, it could be breaking down once it gets heated up. (assuming your test was performed when the coil was cold) That doesn't mean you should run out and buy a new coil though. I would start by inspecting the gas tank, gas cap vent, and the fuel shut-off valve strainer. It's probably time to replace all of the rubber gas line and install a new inline filter too. Once those items have been addressed. you can move on to the carb and give it a thorough cleaning and install a "kit". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
caseybgilbert 4 #9 Posted February 21, 2013 I was finally able to get back to working on it today. I replaced the fuel line (tank to pump and pump to carb), fuel shutoff at tank (old one had a considerable amount of corrosion), and installed an inline filter (no filter was present). Problem still exists. I took the fuel cap off when running to rule out the possibility of the vent being clogged. The only way it will run at high RPMs is if I have the choke on halfway. One weird thing though. The ignition fuse blew today. When I replaced the fuse, it blew again. Thinking that my replacing the fuel line could have damages a wire, I checked for any shorts or worn insulation and found none. For some odd reason, I thought to unplug the voltage regulator to see if that made a difference and it did. The fuse would not blow when the voltage regulator was unplugged. Does this mean my voltage regulator went bad somehow? How do I test the voltage regulator with it off the machine? I would really love to get this thing working right before spring. It takes a long time to cut my 3 acres with my little Snapper. haha. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
caseybgilbert 4 #10 Posted February 21, 2013 I got the sputtering taken care of today. The carb just needed to be adjusted. It was running fairly lean. Now if I could just figure out the new problem of blowing fuses...And then I will be on to getting the belly mower working properly. Just need to straighten out the front of it and replace the roller (at some point in the past, it impacted something and bent the front center in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
