Is my PTO shaft worn? Help!

[Kevbo 81]

So my PRo on my 312-8 was rattling a lot and when I took it off this is what I see! It has like an indent that seems to be worn...the sleeve wiggles a lot...what can I do?

Sorry I meant PTO

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

You need to start looking for a crankshaft and a drive pulley - in addition to another inner bearing race for the PTO.

In case you haven't noticed, the drive pulley set screw is no longer lined up over the keyway in the crank either.

[Kevbo 81]

Does this mean the entire engine needs to be torn apart in order to replace the crank? If so, how difficult do you think this is and are there any guides or walk throughs on the forum?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Replacing the crankshaft doesn't require complete disassembly of the engine. I personally don't think it's difficult, but I have worked on more than a few.

Here's the manual: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/88-k91-k141-k161-k181-k241-k301-k321-k341pdf/

That's the best general guidance you'll get without having a human tutor standing beside you.

[Kevbo 81]

Hmmm...makes me feel a little better! What page should I look to?

[dbartlett1958 99]

Kevin,

You should start at page 1.

What I would do is read the manual as thoroughly as I could before tearing into it. Then I would charge the batteries in my digital camera and just go for it taking lots of pics along the way for reference when you put it back together.

If you get to a point where you feel over your head, ask for help, or take it to someone with proper tools and experience, but in my opinion, there is not much that cannot be fixed with a little time, some patience and some dirty fingers.

Good luck.

[ericj 1,579]

pull the pulley off and see what it looks like you. while you will probably have to take it apart it, don't hurt to take it one step at a time, i always figure on the worst and hope for the best and see what happens

eric

[Don1977 605]

You are going to need a replacement PTO sleeve and new C-clips also. The PTO sleeve on there had to be too large on the inside diameter to do that much damage. Just a guess but I think the bearings in the PTO pulley are bad also.

How do you use the tractor? If for snow plowing or other non PTO duties might be best to just leave the PTO off and use as it is. Might be about as cheap to buy another tractor for use with the PTO.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

The "PTO sleeve" is the bearing race I mentioned in my first post. It's hardened, but doubt that it would have survived that catastrophe.

There's no doubt that the retainers are shot too.

I'll agree with the bad PTO pulley needle bearing. The race is probably welded to the bearing by the looks of the crankshaft. :blink:

[squonk 43,916]

Might be just as cheap to find another engine. You may find a good used crank but a new one might be up there.

[tunahead72 2,551]

I'm a real novice when it comes to engines, so bear with me here...

What would have caused the damage that Kevin is seeing?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I'm a real novice when it comes to engines, so bear with me here...

What would have caused the damage that Kevin is seeing?

My hypothesis is that the needle bearing inside the PTO pulley seized to the bearing race due to lack of lubrication and/or mechanical failure. Once it seized - and since it's not keyed to the crankshaft - it began to rotate on the crankshaft.

[Kevbo 81]

Guys is it ok to put in a different crank and still use the old rod?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

You might as well pull the old crankshaft and measure the rod journal first.

If the engine has been running fine and the connecting rod has no obvious issues, I would not disturb any more than you have to to swap out the crankshaft.

This should get you started - unless you want to bring it up here so I can help you.

Drain the oil then remove the engine from the tractor. Remove the spark plug, blower housing, flywheel, stator, and bearing plate bolts. Unbolt the oil pan, lift the rest of the engine off of the pan and flip it upside down onto the cylinder head. Turn the crank to BDC (bottom dead center) and unbolt the connecting rod cap. Carefully push the piston & rod assembly up in the bore as far as it will go. Tap the crankshaft & bearing plate out of the block. You will need to rotate the crankshaft so it clears the connecting rod as it passes.

[Kevbo 81]

Thank you TT!!

[Docwheelhorse 2,740]

Hello All,

Kevin contacted me about how hard a crank swap was... told him I didnt know and offered the following advice...... Looking at the picks it looks like the crank itself might be ok. I cant see under the drive pulley but i dont see where the crank looked like it was damaged. I would pull off the drive pulley and see if a good used pulley fits on nice and "tight" as it should. A new PTO bushing and check the PTO bell bearings and he should be back to race ready. Here was my other idea and was just a thought---maybe too complicated or costly.

This was the message i sent him--->

Hi--if I was you I would have the end of the crank machined down to 1" and find a 1" bushing from either an 8 hp Kohler or the 11 Hp Briggs single and Briggs Flat Twins. I do not have experience replacing the crank... I replaced the cam which was easy enough. As far as I know you take the flywheel off, then take the alluminum bearing plate off the side of the engine and the crank comes out towards the flywheel side. Then send it to a machine shop and have it machined down from 1 1/8" to 1" and find a 1" drive pulley and bushing off the above mentioned engines.... they arent that hard to find. Or..... pony up for a good used crank. The reason I like using the original crank is that if the motor doesn't knock you will be able to use the original rod etc... as they are worn together as a mate. New crank=New rod=might as well get new piston=Bore job and on and on.... next thing you know finding a bigger hp replacement gets to be a good idea.

let me know if you have any other questions.

Tony

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