Stepney 2,354 #1 Posted January 11, 2013 Well, I have a bit of a different question. (Thats a shocker, huh?) I've had this 1924 Fairbanks Morse model Z engine, it's 3 horse, twin fly-wheels, and water cooled. It is a horrible starter, always flooding, and when it starts, it'll run well... Till you shut it off. When you try to restart it, almost EVERY time, it's hopeless. Yet, when you change the plug out, (An Auto-Lite 3095), it starts up right away! But, does the same thing again, shortly after... I have a few more engines like that, and they ALL do it too! Also, the same issue happens a LOT on my '68 Electro 12! It'll run fine, then all of a sudden start to backfire and spit flames, then it'll die. Let it sit, try again, just a pop, it'll catch for a moment, then die again... (Champion H10C). Also, the same goes AGAIN for the twin '38 Briggs and Stratton WI's! Maybe it's just bad luck, but they've done this for so long now, are Champion and Auto-Lite loosing their touch? I know that my 1920 Fairbanks model Z, (1 1/2 horse) is still on it's ORIGINAL Champion model X, and it runs like a dream... Tell me, has this happened to anyone else? Spenser. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #2 Posted January 11, 2013 could you put a fuel shutoff inline and shut it off to let the motor run dry,turn it on to restart? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stepney 2,354 #3 Posted January 12, 2013 No, wouldn't need to. The engine IS govened by the fuel-valve! There isn't really a govenor at all, so if it's flooded, I just close the needle valve. Trouble is, when it floods the head, and whole bottom of the carb, FILL with gas! It was like that partiulary on the older models, like this. I've thought of adding a drain, but then that would weaken the head... And after seeing the last blow appart on it's first run, I think I'll hold back... By the way, after an hour or so of finicing, I had it running yesterday! :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites