Aerating vs Rolling Lawn Questions

[leeave96 487]

I'm thinking about getting a pull behind plug aerator for my Wheelhorse tractor. Some folks aerate, others roll their lawn. I would think aerating would be better for the organic growth of the lawn where rolling woul just pack things down.

Do you aerate your lawn, do you use a spike or plug aerator, when/what time of the year do you aerate? Do you use a Brinly type aerator? In addition to aerating, do you fertilize and/or re-seed your lawn?

Any tips, suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Bill

[mdclem 12]

The best time to aerate would be in the spring. At the same time you would fertilize your lawn. Being a landscaper, my opinion is to use a plug aerator. It is obviously leaves a mess vs the spike aerator, but it allows the fertilizer and oxygen to get to the roots better. And yes, i would reseed at the same time. ALthough not absolutely necessary it keeps a nice green, lush lawn throughout the year and fills in any dying out spots.

[Jim_M 178]

I use a powered plug aerator in the fall after I'm all done with leaves, then fertilize with a time release winterizer fertilizer. Doing it in the fall gives the plugs a chance to dissolve over the winter so you don't have to worry about running them through your mower deck.

I would like to do it again in the spring but it's always either too wet or too late and the grass is already growing.

I roll in the spring to even the ground out and knock down the high spots.

Edited December 26, 2012 by Jim_M

[GlenPettit 1,714]

Rolling, Plugging & Spiking are really three entirely different operations:

Using a 2-300# Lawn Roller will level & flatten-out the lawn, smashing clumps of dirt or small hills, works best with moist soil, best if driven slowly, some rollers also have small spikes on them, to do double-duty;

A Plug Aerator removes 1/2" plugs of soil, about 2" deep, drops and lets them break-down on the soil surface, the hole lets water, air & fertilizer in, most of us use a pull-behind plugger, a commercial power-driven plugger does a much better job, but $$$.

A Spike Aerator will slice a lot of small slits, thru the thatch into the soil 1-2-3" (weight & slow speed gets it deeper), lets the above in some, very easy to use, some of us will pull this for every 2nd or 3rd mowing, especially in the Spring and Fall.

None of the above work on hard dry soil.

[Jim_M 178]

My aerator pulls a 5/8" plug, 4 inches long every 4 inches, 16 of them per square foot. I got lucky and bought it used for $175.00.

[bk-scouter 93]

Some great info. there. One thing I would add would be that if you have an underground pet containment line such as Invisible Fence buried in your yard, you need to be cautious. A couple years ago, I used a pull-behind aerator in my yard and found out afterwards I had cut my fence with it in three places. It was a system I installed myself, so I had to fix it myself. The neighbors got a laugh when I was crawling around on my hands and knees looking for the wire breaks with an AM radio and headphones.

-BK

[6wheeler 585]

I use a 48" pull behind plug aerator in the spring after a good soaking. It too plugs 5/8" and about 3" to 4" deep. (My wife calls it the turder) It looks like the dogs went wild crapping everywhere. It does a great job and gives the 165 a helluva workout. Then later in the spring I use my 48" spiker w/seeder attachment and put down a 1/2 dose of seed at the same time. I cut at 4" so the spiker cuts the thatch a little and the seed falls down in the tall grass and the birds don't get it. I also only fertilize in the fall and the grass seems to hold its own without watering, even when its hot and dry (I'm not watering 5 acres). I also do a couple of things that may be un-orthodox in the annuls of total lawn care. If its hot and dry? I don't cut the grass (it may get a little long) but, the 520 likes it that way. And one time, during the summer. I let it go to seed. Then I set the decks high enough just to knock the seeds off and then re-mow at the regular height. I get free seed that way. It may seem like alot of x-tra work but, the grass stays green. Even when mother natures watering schedule is all screwed up. And, I don't end up with a yard full of sticks and brown grass. It works for me. I have never rolled my lawn before. Maybe I should try that this year. Pat

[Jim_M 178]

My old German grandpa always said you have to let the grass go to seed once a year to keep it healthy, so that's what I do.

[Fun Engineer 859]

Lots of good suggestions here.

Everyones local climate and soil is a little different and lawn types and preferences vary. At work, our athletic fields usually get aerated right after spring soccer or summer softball and once again after fall soccer. We aerate to relieve soil compaction. We core aerate most of the time but depending upon the condition of the soil and the weather we will use slicing knives. Generally each fall, about a week after core aerateing we overseed with a slit seeder. This machine breaks up the cores that are lying on top of the soil and at the same time it cuts a slit on the top of the soil for the seed to lodge in. You need good soil contact for the seed to germinate. While the machine is breaking up the cores and, slitting the surface it is depositing the seed and covering it with the broken up cores. We overseed in the fall because we begin to use the fields too early in the spring for the seed to germinate and establish itself. (unless we close a field for a season but that creates scheduling problems). Fall overseeding works well for us. We get the seed in the ground in mid to late August or early September and it gets worked into the ground by the players during their last game or two. It usually has a chance to germinate during the warm days and cool niights and establishs a fair root system before it goes dormant for the winter.

You can also try a late season dormant seeding where you overseed just before the snow flies. This way the seed is in the soil and ready to germinate when the days warm up and you get spring rains.

Almost forgot. Unless you have frost heave or animal damage, you shouldn't need to roll your lawn. Compaction is one of the main reasons that certain weeds thrive in lawns. It also limits the transmission of water, nutrients and air to the plant and its roots. Aerate, aerate, aerate.

Here's a picture of my aerating operation. I'm a little lazy. I should have removed the blower and cab doors but in northern Michigan you need to be prepared.

These coring machines are very inexpensive and can be found pretty cheap on CL or e..y.

[Zeek 2,284]

Rolling, Plugging & Spiking are really three entirely different operations:

Using a 2-300# Lawn Roller will level & flatten-out the lawn, smashing clumps of dirt or small hills, works best with moist soil, best if driven slowly, some rollers also have small spikes on them, to do double-duty;

A Plug Aerator removes 1/2" plugs of soil, about 2" deep, drops and lets them break-down on the soil surface, the hole lets water, air & fertilizer in, most of us use a pull-behind plugger, a commercial power-driven plugger does a much better job, but $$$.

A Spike Aerator will slice a lot of small slits, thru the thatch into the soil 1-2-3" (weight & slow speed gets it deeper), lets the above in some, very easy to use, some of us will pull this for every 2nd or 3rd mowing, especially in the Spring and Fall.

None of the above work on hard dry soil.

:text-yeahthat:

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Rolling has gone out of favor, but does help keep the lawn flat. Rolling is generally done in the spring, after the winter heaving is complete.

If going organic one good thing about core aerating is it brings soil to the surface to help feed the micro flora. Of course even slot aerating helps the soil breath.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

These coring machines are very inexpensive and can be found pretty cheap on CL or e..y.

I have never seen one of these pull behind power core aerators. Who are they made by.

[specialwheelhorse 174]

I live about 200 ft from 4 soccer fields and they are constantly conditioning

them spring and fall so now I need to pay more attention to exactly what

and when they are doing. These really take a beating year round.

It seldom gets nasty enoughhere to keep teams off for any length of time

Soccer and Rugby 24 7 around here.

[leeave96 487]

Update:  I had been trying to find a used core aerator with ZERO luck (I'm to cheap to buy a new one... ).  My Brother and I were riding around our small town and went down a street, saw a couple of old warn-out looking tillers for sale.  Next to them was a plug aerator - but no "for sale" sign on it.  We stopped, I asked the guy if he would sell it and after some haggling, brought it home.  I tried it out yesterday and what a great job it did.

 

This is a Precision aerator same as sold at Tractor Supply.  What I like about it is it is 40ish inches wide vs 48, so it is an easier pull and just about the width of the tractor.  I bolted on a 1-7/8 ball hitch and ball (with 1/2 inch shank) to my tractor and gave it a workout.  I used my '92 520-H with foot control and it worked great.  The reason I use a ball hitch is my yard is not level.  It is lumpy, has some areas with slope and is generally rolling in terrain.  When I use a "normal" hitch with a pin on the draw bar, sometimes I get some binding as the implement or tractor pitches from one side to the other.  The ball hitch solves that problem.

 

I'll try to post some pics later this week.

 

BTW - the aerator at TSC is $250ish, I paid $75 for mine...

 

Thanks!

Bill

[bubbacola 8]

  My dad who was a truck farmer in the 30's always told me to roll your lawn in early spring when the frost is coming out of the ground. Only need to do this if your lawn has bare spots with those ankle twisting klumps of grass... After that pull the aerator around then follow with a good fertilizer.  I like a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12.   First # will make it green but the second # will grow roots which will fill in the bare spots and choke out weeds. I only have to spray weeds every three to four year.. I have never used a plug aerator so I'm not sure if its better or not.... My 2 cents