home built FEL.

[Ivegotahorse 4]

Alright guy.....i know this topic has come up millions of times but i need some help building a loader for my 417-8. i have a basic idea/design but i need some input on what to do and what to change. i was planning on using 2x3x3/16 box tubing for th arms and uprights, 1/4 plate for the bucket and anywear i reinforce joints??? next i am stumped on the supports from the uprights to the front of the tractor...... what size tubing would u use and where to attach it??? the front attachamatic is what i was thinking.for the sub frame what sze tubing would u use? also should i bolt it to the frame or use the mid mount attachamatic or both? lastly i have the rear tiller bractet on my machine and i dont want to take it off everytime i have the loader on. Can i us that for my back mount instead of mounting it to the rear axle?

thanks for any and all input

[squonk 39,097]

I wouldn't use any tach a matics. I would bolt it to the frame

[baerpath 517]

Normall they attach to the front quick attach for the uprights like your diagram, The sub frame mounts in the center quick attach and around the rear axle. You can leave the tiller hookup on too.

[farmer 1,075]

Ivegotahorse, welcome to I'd say, if its a tractor for permanent loader use bolt it on. If the loader is going to be one of your attachments on a tractor that has to do multiple tasks, then go with the quick attach system. :twocents-twocents:

[wallfish 15,998]

The factory design for the supports to the uprights uses a bracket that is bolted to the front frame of the tractor and doesn't use the tach a matic. It has tabs welded on at an angle so when the tubes are bolted on, they line up to connect to the angled tabs on the uprights. Keeping the tubes straight will keep the strength in them.

1/2" black plumbing pipe is about the size of the original support tubes so you could easily use that material to make them.

You really don't need to build the ENTIRE bucket out of 1/4" since that will make it kind of heavy which means the less you can lift and more counter weight needed even when it's empty.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

:WRS:

[Ivegotahorse 4]

The 417 is used for everything... I have a tiller, single stage snow blower ( soon to be a two stage) and 48 inch deck so I would like to make it easy to put on and take off..... So 1/4 is to thick / heavy for the bucket.... What would would be a good size to use then 3/16? Lastly does anyone have a pic of the way they mounted there supports to the front quick attach. And thanks for all the input!!

[wallfish 15,998]

Here's a link to download a FEL file which should help with some guide lines for building one.

You can certainly build it with 1/4" material which will make it bullet proof but the trade off is the weight of it.

[sorekiwi 761]

I would think 1/8" would be plenty thick enough to build the bucket out of. The little tractors struggle to get enough weight on the back to counterbalance the front as it is.

[Forest Road 594]

I have a kwik way loader on a 522 xi. I have a 314h for all my attachments. If you have enough space for a second tractor Id encourage you to get one. I find it a hassle to change attachments on a daily basis. Of course it all comes down to what you can afford. Good luck with your build.

[SousaKerry 500]

1/8" plate is actually 10 gauge (.135") just for clarification when you call the steel supplier..

And I would build the bucket from 10ga steel and reinforce the edges with 1/4 strip to save on weight.

[jdog_kustoms 82]

Instead of building a bucket go to budget forklift.com you can get already made buckets preaty cheap with or without teath and they even way about 100 lbs

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

[brandonozz 168]

Hello All,

I have a couple of questions about this topic I'm hoping you guys could help me with as well. Will a FEL from a "D" series tractor fit on a "C" tractor? I may be able to get a FEL from a D that has been sitting for a while (unfortunately out in the elements) and was wondering if it would fit. Also, are there likely to be seals that need to be repaired on a FEL to get it ready to use and if so how available would those seals be found?

Lastly, "Ivegotahorse" is planning on putting his FEL on a 417-8 - that would be a manual trans not a hydro - correct? How are guys installing hydro pumps on tractors with 8 speeds and how well is your setup working. I see that the hydro tractors that have FEL's installed get the job done but they seem to operate pretty slowly. Are "add on" pumps a higher volume which will run the rams a bit quicker?

Thanks for any help. Not a lot of WH tractors down here in the South so this site is about the only way to gain knowledge - thanks for all the past information as well!

[wallfish 15,998]

Even on a hydro tractor I would use a separate pump for a FEL. I run 2 pumps on mine, 1 for the FEL and 1 for the Hoe. I believe the D fel is a little bigger but you would need to build a subframe for your tractor anyway so just build it to fit that FEL. The front pump is the factory loader pump and the left one is for the hoe. They just run off the pto with belts

[brandonozz 168]

Thanks for the info wallfish. Do you know what type of pumps you have and is that what most people install? Any specs for a pump would be appreciated.

[wallfish 15,998]

Here's a link to the pump.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329712_200329712

[brandonozz 168]

Thanks John!