1054A Questions

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Thanks Burly.... Your always looking out for us. B)

[big mike 13]

No problem Mike,just offerin a hand if I can B)

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Just curious Mike....how far away are you?

[big mike 13]

I'm on either side

I live on the east side of Beebe farms

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Anyone able to show me what the rear tail light was suppose to look like????

[Brrly1 1,146]

Hey Teddy It looks like a small bullet type light. Ebay occasionally but they ar expensive. I am also looking for one, Good Luck Burly

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Thanks John,

I had a feeling it would be something like a "bubble".

I will see what I can come up with.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Came up against a small problem.

I adjusted the brake band. But I still cannot shift gears with the engine running. I took off the belt guard and observed the tensioning pulley when the foot peddle is depressed. It slackens the belt, but perhaps not enough. The tractor wants to take off anyway.

I do not think the belt itself is too small.

I wonder if there is suppose to be more "travel" in this tensioning pulley bracket? Is the pulley suppose to clear (drop below) the belt path entirely? The tensioning pulley still touches the belt on my tractor.

Did somone stomp on the brake/clutch peddle and bend something??

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Brrly1 1,146]

Hey Teddy Take some pictures and I will compare to mine and let you know.But probably some of these guys might be able to tell you just by looking at it. I believe the belt #'s are 1591 for the Hyd. belt and 1592 for the drive belt and 1593 for the starter generator belt. These #'s are the Wheel Horse #'s. Every so often you see these come up on ebay. See ya Burly :horseplay: :horseplay:

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Ok....first shows belt under normal tension.

Attached Image

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Here is the belt position when clutch peddle is fully depressed.

Note that belt is slack, but still touching tensioning pulley.

Attached Image

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The "finger" is missing from the back of the tensioner pulley. (go look at the parts drawing - it's part no. 6360)

Without the tab to pinch the belt, it won't lift off of the engine pulley enough to declutch.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Terry....I see the part your refering to. It looks like I could make one if someone like Burly could get me some measurements and a picture of it's orientation on that pulley.

I know it likely reaches out over the width of the pulley, but I do not know how far above the pulley the bent part of the finger sits.

And from an engineering standpoint I do not see how this could work.

Given the direction the pulley moves when the clutch peddle is depressed.....it seems like it would pinch/tighten the belt further when the tensioning pulley moved down.

Need picture of this if someone can do that.

Thanks

[Duff 206]

And from an engineering standpoint I do not see how this could work.

Given the direction the pulley moves when the clutch peddle is depressed.....it seems like it would pinch/tighten the belt further when the tensioning pulley moved down.

Mike, I know it seems bass-ackwards, and I thought the same thing when I was putting my 312-8, which has a roughly similar set-up, back together. Turns out, if I see/understand the situation correctly, the "finger" TT is referring to also acts a belt "brake" so the belt stops moving when you declutch so you can shift without grinding the gears.

Am I on the right track, guys?

Duff B)

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I think I can picture that action Duff.....thanks.

Now to fabricate something that works.

I would still love to see a picture of it on the tractor.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

No one willing to take a belt cover off for a picture?

Awwwwwwwwww....

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Your signature says you have 5 other gear-drive tractors.....

Can't you just look at one of those?

(they all work the same way.)

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Sorry I was so naive. I thought most of the 1054 was unique to that tractor.

Thanks.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The parts are unique to the 953/1054, (the whole tractor is actually unique) but the belt finger works the same on all tractors. It fastens to the back side of the tensioner arm with the same bolt that secures the V idler.

On the newer models, the finger is actually welded to the tensioner arm in a fixed position. Never bend the finger to remove the belt - always unbolt the V idler.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I got one made...... Darned if I know if it works or not.

Thought I would try to address the throttle linkage issue and I made a bigger issue of it by breaking a half inch off near the lever.

Went to buy a cable and they said they don't sell raw cable. I will wait until the swap meet in Portland to get one.

[big mike 13]

Mike,could you get a cheap cable locally and fix yours?

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Mike.....you likely have the right idea.

I just needed some time to think about it and see if it was possible to alter an existing cable.

[linen beige 14]

Went to buy a cable and they said they don't sell raw cable.

Maybe "they" don't, but someone does. Check with a real hardware store. It comes in rolls, just like electrical wire, chain, rope, etc. And in more than one size. Just make sure you get both an outside sheath, AND the inside wire.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Jim....C&C of South Bend is a Kohler engine parts dealer.

They did have raw cable but asked me if I wanted to buy a 50ft. roll....

I will give the true value store a call.....thanks.

[linen beige 14]

Jim....C&C of South Bend is a Kohler engine parts dealer.

They did have raw cable but asked me if I wanted to buy a 50ft. roll....

I will give the true value store a call.....thanks.

It's been a few years since I bought a roll, but if you figure say, five feet per cable, two cables per tractor, it works out to only five tractors a roll. If a fifty foot roll aint too steep, then it may be worth it to replace ALL the old rusted cables on five or so tractors?