K161 Governor Stub Shaft Replacement

[rmaynard 14,922]

I found when disassembling the K161 that I had a bit of wobble in the governor gear. It's not easy to measure the diameter shaft, but I found that a new 3/8" drill bit inserted into the gear is a good fit (no wobble). So with that in mind, I am convinced that my stub shaft is worn and not the gear.

Next step is that I am going to attempt to replace the stub shaft with only the aid of simple hand tools.

More to follow...

Edited November 24, 2012 by rmaynard

[tunahead72 2,346]

Done yet? :popcorn:

[rmaynard 14,922]

Done yet?

Actually, I did remove it, and I installed a 3/8" x 5/8" shaft which is a little too short. Getting a longer one and will do it all over again.

[tunahead72 2,346]

Nice, keep us posted... I'm a big fan of these "simple hand tool" fixes. :handgestures-thumbup:

[rmaynard 14,922]

I will document the procedure when I get the correct part.

[oldredrider 2,547]

"If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?"

[rmaynard 14,922]

"If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?"

Touché

[rmaynard 14,922]

Okay, I got my new stub shaft (dowel pin) yesterday. It is 3/8" x 3/4", heat treated alloy steel. Got it from Fastenal for $.65. Kohler wants around $20.00.

I promised to document the process of removing the old shaft and inserting the new with only common hand tools, so here it is.

Here is the worn shaft that needs to be replaced.

First step is to remove the welch plug.

This is easily done by tapping it from behind (through the crankcase) with a rod or screwdriver. After it is removed, it's on to the shaft.

The back end of the shaft sticks through the wall of the block to the inside of the valve spring/breather area. Only about 1/16" is visible. Not knowing whether or not the original shaft was tapered or had splines, I decided to push it out from the back side.

Because there is no access to be able to tap the shaft straight-on, I inserted an 11/16" socket into the opening and used it as a block to rest my 1/4" drive rod against. This prevents the rod from slipping off the shaft when tapping it with the hammer.

A couple of good taps and the old shaft is out.

Since this rod was not tapered and did not have splines, I could have gone in through the welch plug hole and pushed it all the way through, into the breather area.

Anyway, now it was time to insert the new shaft. Gripping it with a pair of needle nose pliers, I inserted it through the welch plug hole and into the hole in the block.

I then took my 3/8" rod and carefully tapped the shaft into the hole until there was 3/8" protruding.

Next I installed the governor gear to check for fit. No wobble at all.

And that's that. Pretty simple fix. After I am finished reassembling the engine, I will install a new welch plug.

Edited November 24, 2012 by rmaynard