Transmission in relationship to the clutch

[ray 10]

This might sound like a really basic question to most of you, but I'm a little baffled on how a Wheel Horse tractor clutch/brake operates or isn't operating properly while not shifting on the fly. My question is, when the brake pedal is applied and the tractor comes to a complete stop, is the transmission pulley supposed to be still spinning or stopped as the tensioner is lifted so that there isn't contact with the belt.

On my tractor at a complete stop, the pulley on mine still spins, so I'm crunching gears most of the time while shifting it into any of the three gears or reverse?

I've been searching the internet plus all the books on old tractors at the local library but this topic isn't addressed. So, is there something in the transmission that basically puts the transmission in neutral so that it can be shifted? or is it possible that the clutch/brake assembly is malfunctioning, out of adustment, or the brake lining too worn. So far I've adjusted the linkage across the full spectrum, but I'm still crunching gears. All comments appreciated, even if it creates a good laugh as long as it leads to an answer.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

If the tractor in question is the one pictured in your avatar, it needs a drive belt guard for proper declutching of the belt.

There can also be guides of some sort (usually constructed of heavy wire / small round steel rod) to help push the belt slightly out of the groove at the engine pulley when the belt tension is released.

Drive belts should be fabric-covered vs. rubber coated to allow proper slippage and smooth engagement.

[ray 10]

Terry. I just got this tractor a little over a week ago and so far I haven't any luck finding a guard. I've got a pattern made to fabricate one myself, but now I am wondering if there are some other guides on the inner side of the gaurd not shown in the owner's manual.If you are referring to the little heavy ga. wire above the transmission pulley, it's on there and adjusted as shown in the manual, if there are other methods designed by members of this forum, what topic do I look under? Great Forum

thanks

Ray

[ray 10]

Update

I just decided to do a little more adjusting to the wire guide and the shifting has improved quite a bit.

[Rock farmer 41]

Ray,

Your brake should stop the input pulley from spinning when it is applied.

Often the oil seal on the shaft behind the brake drum will leak oil all over

The brake pad. If someone washed/degreased the pad so it looks good,

It may not be. The fibre pad or shoe can soak up oil.

It will ooze oil all the time. You may need to replace it.

The other problem is that the drive belt should be dis-engaged when the

Brake is applied.

Your belt could be the wrong belt, worn too small or, improperly installed.

Does the belt tensioner pulley release the belt when the brake is applied?

Joe

[rmaynard 14,922]

Another thing to remember is that you can't shift on the fly. You must pick your gear and start out in it. These transmissions are not designed to be shifted like an automobile.

[midnight rambler 36]

what model is that i might have a gaurd

[ray 10]

@Joe, thanks these are some good things to check tomorrow. The brake is functional to stop the tractor, but it might be slipping. I Know that the tensioner releases the belt, but there is some contact made because it spins along with the transmission input pulley. Adjusting the wire belt guide made some improvement but not 100 % yet. The belt is new. The manual says to use an 89" but this slips to where the tractor won't move so I have to use an 88"

@Tom it is a 71 800 Special (shown in my profile photo) The model number that should be by the dash is no longer there

@Maynard I never shift on the fly, but this is a point to rememember thanks

[Rock farmer 41]

Keep us posted.

That belt length issue is interesting.

Maybe something else is wrong.

These old tractors may have seen many alterations through the

Years.

Joe