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dsholler

Weight on the slot hitch

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dsholler

Anyone have any experiences (good or bad) with adding weights to the standard slot hitch on the tractor? Anyone know how much weight I can get away with? have a bunch of old dumbell plates that I do not use, which I thought might make a good addition this winter, as I have acquired a SS Snowthrower. It seemed like this would be a nice (read cheap) way to get the traction increased (certainly would put chains on as well...) But I figured I could just stick a bolt and some washers through the hole in the hitch and put a few plates on there....but I do not want to bend the hitch, as I do use my dump cart fairly frequently.

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Kelly

You mean the fixed draw bar hitch or a cast iron slot hitch that raises and lowers with the cable? I have put about 50lbs on my draw bar hitch, but at the end of the winter I think it sagged some, if your talking slot hitch with a cable I wouldn't put much if any on it as the small cable will not take the strain, I know you can lift a tiller and such with them but staedy pressure over the winter might not be good.

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AMC RULES

I can't imagine it would hold enough weight to make a significant difference in the traction department.

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over60pirate

Unless you have wheel weights now, I would put the weight plates on the wheels. Why put more weight/strain on the wheel bearings/axles.

You could rig a chain to help support weights on the hitch.

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sorekiwi

I dont know what tractor you are talking about, but I had my blower on a 520 last year. 30lb wheel weights and chains on the back, and I built a mount for the rectanhular gym weights on the back (about 10" further back than the hole in the hitch).

I started off with 80 lbs out the back, but found it was too much and he tractor wouldnt steer. 30 lbs on the back seemed about right.

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B-100 Dan

I agree with Kelly. I would not put any weight on the slot hitch, too much strain on the lift cable. Wheel weights, or loaded wheels is the way to go. Saves on the bearing load. I've plowed for years with loaded tires and chains with no problems. Good luck.

Dan

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over60pirate

I have moved trailers with 150# tongue weight with this:

post-6550-0-40934800-1349040240_thumb.jp

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3609horse

When I was a kid my dad had a 701 with the cable slot hitch and used a plate with a ball on it and we would use the tractor to pull the horse trailer loaded with hay out to the barn. He had to add wieght to the plow to keep the front end down but that tractor pulled it like a truck would. I think those cables can hold more than you think. I don't think I would try it with replacement cables but I still have the tractor with the original cable still in tact. Thats just my personal experience with the slot hitch.

Gene...

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kpinnc

Just be sure to put something on the hitch to reduce the amount of concentrated pressure on the bottom of the tranny. "over60pirates" way above with the chains supporting the leverage is one way, and adding a "foot" under there is another:

muledrive044.jpg

The hitch isn't the weak spot, but rather the upward force applied to the bottom of the transmission case. Trust me, they will crack. The more you spread out the load, the better. Cast iron will take quite a load, but if you "bounce" the weight, it will crack like glass in winter.

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B-100 Dan

That is not the slot hitch, Over60pirate, thats the draw bar, the slot hitch is above the draw bar. The tractor in pic does not have a slot hitch on it. I've also pulled and hauled lots of weight on the draw bar. Just trying to clear up, thats all.

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COMMANDO1

I have put over 100lbs on mine, did fine. Now i have my 23 10.50 12's filled. works great.

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