Woodsie 51 #1 Posted September 26, 2012 New Member. Resurrecting a 1991'ish 520. 20 HP Onan. Wiring has been butchered. Just fixed the valve seats, now got it running with battery wire, hot coil wire, start wire to solenoid. when i turn to starter run position, i lose power to + side of coil. Apparently another disgusting safety feature. Any thoughts on how to allevuiate this other than older model switch, or separate toggle on power to coil??. Any response appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,173 #2 Posted September 27, 2012 :WRS: I can't see it from here but is the ignition power wire connected to the accessory ("A") or rectifier ("R") terminal instead of the ignition ("I") terminal? Maybe it's not even the correct switch. :confusion-shrug: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsie 51 #3 Posted September 27, 2012 nope i have the right terminals. have a wiring diagram. the switch was in it. talked to original owner. same switch it came with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,573 #4 Posted September 27, 2012 Sounds like the wiring could be bungled up forcing the ignition switch to be powered off the "A" terminal. When the ignition switch is rotated from the RUN position to the START position, the power is removed from the "A" terminal. The "I" terminal should remain hot in both RUN and START switch positions. Trace back the wiring from the ignition coil(+) terminal thru the 9 pin connector. It SHOULD NOT end up on the "A" circuit. That would be one explanation for the loss of coil power in the START position. Another explanation would be a defective ignition switch loosing internal contact between the "B" and the "I" terminal when the ignition switch is in the START position. Either way .... a multimeter check to test continuity of the wiring / ignition switch will tell the story. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsie 51 #5 Posted September 27, 2012 I have a 5 lug plus ground switch. Wiring diag. also shows 5 lug. 12 o'clock "start", 3 o'clock "ignition", 5 o'clock "acc", 7 o'clock "not used", 9 o'clock "battery". i have eliminated total wiring harness. ign. to coil. start to solenoid. battery to battery. maybe a bad switch acc and ign both cut out with key turn to start position on the bench with continuity meter from battery lug to ign. lug. old switch i have here is 6 lug does not cut off ign. power in key start position. Thanks for help. i will have rectifier charging system questions later, i have a 3 post rectifier. again i have eliminated all other wires going to that "engine connector" block. we're goin back to basics here. somebody redid / raped this wiring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,573 #6 Posted September 27, 2012 the incorrect switch has "G" and "M" terminals - the correct style switch for coil based ignition systems will have terminals labeled "A", "B", "I", "R" and "S". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsie 51 #7 Posted September 27, 2012 well my 500 series user manual from the original owner shows A, B, I, R, and S, with an additional ground lug. 5posts +grnd. It matches the actual switch. i am gonna put my old switch on and wire it accordingly. considering it a bad switch. thanks for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,573 #8 Posted September 27, 2012 good, apparently we have the right switch. the demystification guide does not show a ground but no matter. next step is to connect an ohmmeter across the I and B terminal turn the switch to the START position. you should see continuity from I to B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodsie 51 #9 Posted September 28, 2012 nope thats the problem.....turn to start, lose I to B continuity. wiring in my other switch. thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bromano 1 #10 Posted 10 hours ago I have a Wheelhorse 520 H 1994 that stalled when warming up and then when turning the ignition switch to start is dead. The batteries charged full. could it be the ignition switch? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 9,039 #11 Posted 10 hours ago Welcome to the forum, a common cause for this is the 9-pin connector connecting the engine with the tractor wiring harness. There are several posts here regarding that connector. My 416-8 has the same connector and when it failed had exactly the same symptoms. I replaced the connector, putting new pins on and it’s back to normal. Often you can test this by wiggling the connector seeing if you get power back to the machine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 67,966 #12 Posted 1 minute ago In addition to the 9 pin connector look at your fuse holders and the fuses, they tend to become corroded. Clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. Thake a few minutes and introduce your self, tell us a bit about your wheel Horse and anything else you would like to. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/47-introductions/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites