freeing up rusted parts? suggestions

[608KEB 796]

I am trying to free up the steering wheel/ roll pin and the hydro shaft/ lever on a B-100 I'm restoring. I got the inner shaft of the hydro lever apart with no problems on a different B-100. But this one is stuck. It doesn't look rusted. But it must be. I tried tapping the shaft out but no luck. Can I heat the Hydro shaft? To free the steering wheel I've set the tower upright, took the steering cap off and filled it up with PB blaster. I can't heat the shaft, because I'll damage the steering wheel. I've heard of using a 50/50 mix of Acetone/ATF will this damage the rubber steering wheel? I have heard of using Kroil penetrating oil. Has anbody tried this. If so, where can I purchase it?

[dcrage 630]

I tried the 50/50 acetone/ATF on my mule drive and it didn't work very well -- My biggest complaint was that is was NOT miscible (they don't mix together at that ratio) -- There was a whole lot of ATF that never went into the acetone

[Rooster 192]

I have found the best for freeing rusted parts is e-tanks. For. Something like a steering wheel alot of times I will make a temporary use tank. I have even used a cardboard box with a trash bag. Few hours of bubbling and the parts are freed up, no damage!!

[roost 1]

the 50/50 acetone atf works well on rusted parts, but i found that if you have it in a spray bottle is to shake it up before use. the trick for steering wheels is to be able to keep it on the shaft. i think it has a half moon key on there also?

[608KEB 796]

Will the acetone or E-tank methods damage the steering wheel? Thanks. KB

[dcrage 630]

The acetone might although I wouldn't expect it to -- The only way to know for sure is to try it -- Put a drop or two of acetone on the wheel and see what happens -- Acetone isn't that strong of an organic solvent, so again I wouldn't expect a problem

[prondzy 3,889]

There is a penetrating lubricant called Kroil it is an industrial strength lube and can only be bought online there is none in stores. Seen it on the TV show Stacy Davids gears and the guys at work swear by it (factory mechanics) just soak it down wait a couple days and then try should come out easy. I haven't purchased yet but plan on it real soon.

[gomer gump 8]

had one on an old electro 12 let it soak in pb blaster for a few days it came right out tried it again on another old tractor it was rusted solid couldn,t get it out so heated it off with a torch an bought a different steering wheel had a two stage wh horse snowthrower couldn,t get the auger and shaft seperated tried everything imaginable could not get it so just bought a new one sometimes parts get too rusted an its like their welded together from the rust just buy new or used in good shape an when you put new or used pts on coat them with some sort of lube usually i use a lot of white grease cheap an seems to work real good i worked at an old uniroyal plant in indiana when i was a kid an ran a machine we used a chemical called m.e.k. methyl ethyl keytone it,s extremely flamable but i swear it would free up anything rusted or stuck but probably eat up rubber or plastic . i don,t think you can even buy it but maybe don,t know. goood luck

[kthack657 328]

Heat can also work to free parts, a small torch should do the trick

[Road-Track 39]

m.e.k. methyl ethyl keytone is the industrial name for Acetone. It has a flash point close to gasoline so watch out. PB Blaster, heat or an e-tank are the safest.

[kpinnc 14,587]

m.e.k. methyl ethyl keytone

We used to call the stuff Methyl Ethyl Death in the military, because it's really bad stuff. Flammability is not the issue- it's bad on your skin, will blind you if it gets in your eyes, and the vapors alone can kill you. If you use it, please do so carefully.

To answer the original question: Nothing frees up rusted parts like an E-Tank. It won't hurt the steering wheel UNLESS there is significant rust under the plastic itself. The plastic parts could "loosen" a bit from the material underneath them being removed by the process, but only if they are VERY rusty. Otherwise, the process does no harm to plastic. Just keep all non-ferrous metals (aluminum, brass, copper, zinc-coatings, etc) out of the solution.

Copper makes a green sludge, galvanized makes an orange one. Aluminum will be dissolved completely. Stainless steel adds by-products to the solution which are extremely toxic. Never put anything in the solution other than regular steel or cast iron.

Good luck!

[dcrage 630]

The chemist in me talking here -- I want to make it very clear to everyone that methyl ethyl ketone and acetone are NOT the same compound -- They would be close to each other (acetone could be called methyl methyl ketone) but that small difference could have significant differences in physical properties -- We all have had experience with acetone; it is a real common household solvent (i.e. fingernail polish remover) -- MEK has a slightly higer boiling point and is a stronger solvent (think it will penetrate your skin faster than acetone) -- Acetone is totally water soluble where as MEK has limited water solubility (although it is a significant amount) -- All in all I would be a little bit more leary of MEK than I would be of acetone

BOTH WILL GO BOOM really quickly around an ignition source!!!!

[608KEB 796]

Thanks for the suggestions, I'm going to givr the e-tank a try.

[drscooby 0]

I work for and aircraft manuf... stay away from mpd. try some vinegar

[drscooby 0]

I work for and aircraft manufacturer ... stay away from MPK. try soaking  it in some vinegar. and soak it for a few days. Acetone evaporates fast, if I remember right  there is acetone in seafoam and they say to be careful around plastic parts

[rwilson 128]

Never had a problem with an E-Tank

[Coadster32 793]

Never had a problem with an E-Tank

 

X2.

[Joefrommi65 18]

There is a penetrating lubricant called Kroil it is an industrial strength lube and can only be bought online there is none in stores. Seen it on the TV show Stacy Davids gears and the guys at work swear by it (factory mechanics) just soak it down wait a couple days and then try should come out easy. I haven't purchased yet but plan on it real soon.

I use kroil at work all the time and it works well, and I found it at a auto zone and use it at home also. It smells pretty bad but I have never had a problem with plastic breaking down when using it.We use the aerosol can at work but I bought the gallon can and use it in a spray bottle.

Edited April 4, 2014 by Joefrommi65

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,451]

If you have some Seafoam fuel treatment try that. They package it in a spray can and call it Deep Creep.

 

Garry

[rannug 0]

Kroil is the only one around my shop. If I remember correctly, I had to have it sent to my "gun shop". Really is a good product.