prondzy 3,867 #1 Posted August 27, 2012 I recently bought a 69 electro 12 looking to do a restore. I was looking at it and was wondering about The pto engagement. Mine has a long bar that is moved to the left and right to engage the pto I thought the electro had the electric pto? It does have an accessories switch and what looks like a connection by the pto hub. Any help is greatly appreciated . The motor has a broken rod so I am not able to start and test electrical at this time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
evanloock 217 #2 Posted August 27, 2012 Electric PTO failed at some point and was replaced with the manual PTO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,867 #3 Posted August 27, 2012 Okay thanks for the info would it be worthwhile to install one of the new electric pto available on eBay? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #4 Posted August 27, 2012 Sounds like someone changed it to a manual PTO. From the reading on here I thought "electro" ment electric pto and possible electric lift, if I'm wrong, someone please correct me please! Too bad engine is broke, I guess I'm curious to know if changing to manual PTO vs. electric is cheaper, or maybe PO used the PTO off a parts tractor... Good luck on it..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,867 #5 Posted August 27, 2012 It has hydraulic lift but I'm just curious is it worth the money to put on an electric pto Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rock farmer 41 #6 Posted August 28, 2012 I have a 1970 Electro 12 with an electric pto. It works but could be better. I saw a used electric clutch on eBay for $20. Thought ok might be nice have a back up. It sold for over $80! That's why people replaced them with mechanical ones! Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #7 Posted August 28, 2012 The electro was the top of the line machine, elect. PTO, hyd lift, lights, cig. lighter, most had hub caps, finding a good elect. clutch can be tough, and good working ones are not cheap, most are burnt up or bad bearings, I have not looked myself but heard the bearing is not available. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rock farmer 41 #8 Posted August 28, 2012 I got my electro only recently. When I looked at the pto clutch, the wires had shorted, they had been patched and broken. I respliced them with solder and Shrink wrap and it worked! Only requires 12V to one wire and ground To the other. And the metal plate should snap back towards the outer Clutch. The other issue is the friction material. If that's worn out, I don't Know what to do! Mine hadn't been run in a number of years, so I'm Hoping it will clean up and get better. (fingers crossed). You can test the electrical part without the engine running. The other thing with these electro's I'm told is the coil is unique. Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keitholdcar 15 #9 Posted August 29, 2012 I have a 1973 12 automatic with the electric PTO.I got it new,and when the tractor was about 15 years old the electromagnet in the PTO quit.I went to Wheel Horse and the parts guy told me it would be about $200.I thought that was a lot of money for a coil of wire,but the parts man told me that he wasn't selling me a coil of wire,he was selling me a changeover to the manual PTO.I kind of liked my electric setup,so I took the magnet part to a motor rewinding shop here in town.They told me that rewinding the coil was a tiny job but the real time would be in making a mold to wind around.He described what he required and I went home and made it.They didn't expect that,he said most people just give up when they have to do a little work themselves.They charged me $50.and $30.of that was for a high-impact vibration resistant epoxy that he insisted on using for my application.This was in 1987 or so,and the clutch is working just fine today.It never sees weather though,it is always stored indoors.Friction material?I don't have any.Just a slotted steel friction disc.If I wrap a piece of hose,fan belt,fence wire,or anything around the blades the belts will smoke off before that clutch slips.I also have a C-160 with a manual PTO,I don't care for that anywhere as near as much as the electric. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rock farmer 41 #10 Posted August 29, 2012 Thanks for the info! That is helpful. How did yours fail? If you can remember! Mine moves when energized but, not always far enough to engage the clutch. I wonder if there is some way to adjust for that. It has a tag on it that says how to remove it . But, it's old not totally legible. If I take a piece of wood and tap it closer it snaps on. Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keitholdcar 15 #11 Posted August 30, 2012 Mine had an open,not a short.It just quit,power went in one end but not out the other.Somewhere in that coil of wire,enclosed in epoxy was a break.The original epoxy had shrunk and cracked.The coil was supposed to be bedded in the epoxy in that cup,but it had shrunk away fron the steel and was loose in there.I didn't have to pry it out.The rewinder made the coil,set it in the cup and poured the new epoxy around it.The new stuff has outlasted the original by nearly 10 years now.I don't know why yours isn't engaging properly,in my experience with electromagnetic clutches,they either work or they don't.You do need a strong power source,with a weak battery they don't like to kick in.The old Cub Cadets had an adjustable magnet.You could tighten three spring loaded nuts to bring the magnet closer to the plate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
