Wont run on run

[Toad454 0]

My 10when I try to start it it wont stay running on just run I have to turn the key to run acc or it will just die any idies

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Toadie,

10 what ? What model ? Kohler points engine / Tecky solid state / Chicom replacement ??

[rmaynard 14,932]

Sounds like a bad ignition switch to me.

[Kelly 1,028]

Did it run before?? have you done anything to maybe make it not start? could be a few things, but I think Bob is right probably ign. switch.

[Toad454 0]

This is what the plate say 103608

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

1973 no name 10 / 8 speed.

No serious wiring modifications? Kohler points / coil engine ?

Check for correct switch for a points / coil system then loose/ corroded wiring / connector, etc then investigate the igntion switch.

[Toad454 0]

It has a 10hp kohler points and will fire 3or4 times but in that time you have to turn the key to run acc or it wont stay at idile but it wont rev up ether

[Toad454 0]

What do you mean by no name?

[rmaynard 14,932]

That series of tractors had no name, just a number representing the horse power, and what kind of transmission. So yours is a 10 8-Speed, unlike the 1974 10 HP which was called the B-100, or the 1972 10 HP which was named Raider 10 or Charger 10.

[kpinnc 10,872]

Tractors made that particular year did not have names like "Raider 10" or "B-100". That was during the AMC aquisition of Wheel Horse, so the tractors just got tagged with a description instead of a traditional name. It's not a derogatory remark nor did it affect how tough the tractors were.

"No name" is just a nickname for tractors of the period given by many collectors.

EDIT: Bob beat me to it.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

It has a 10hp kohler points and will fire 3or4 times but in that time you have to turn the key to run acc or it wont stay at idile but it wont rev up ether

You may have more than just one issue. I noticed in another one of your posts, you asked about the need for a condensor. Yes - you need a condensor. The combination of the coil and condensor allows a "longer" spark to occour when the coil fires. Think of the coil / condensor as like ringing a bell. When you strike a bell, you expect it to "ring" for a little while past when you strike it. This is what adding the condenser to the coil accomplishes (yes, it also supresses spark at the points). If you don't have a condensor in the circuit, think of it like putting your hand on the bell when you strike it - all you get it a short "thud" which would be a very short, weak spark event. This short spark would cause trouble like erractic starting, erratic idle and not allowing the engine to run above idle.

One way to remove the igniton switch as part of the problem is to temporarily jumper the (+) of the coil directly to the battery. Start the engine. If if fails to run, it is NOT THE IGNITION SWITCH at fault. Once you get the engine running properly with the jumper, then you can remove it an continue to troubleshoot why the engine won't run when powere thru the ignition switch.