Foozerush 40 #1 Posted August 11, 2012 Messing around in the yard last night, flick headlight switch, nothing. Pulled into garage for night. After work today I went to sit at computer to look up wire diagram, think power supply died. So to help me, there is no juice to lights, or switch, where does the switch get juice from? Sorta tried to follow wires to harness to see where it goes, but I gave up after finding my flashlight batteries were toast... Any help would be appreciated... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
73-18 automatic 8 #2 Posted August 11, 2012 same circuit as the hour meter think it's a 10 amp fuse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,554 #3 Posted August 11, 2012 No expert here, but it may depend on the model year of your tractor, what's yours? Did you try different positions on the ignition switch? Engine running? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #4 Posted August 11, 2012 it may depend on the model year of your tractor The 416-8 model was built in various configurations from 1985 to 1997. Which one do you have? :confusion-shrug: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #5 Posted August 11, 2012 It is 73420. 5900710. Tuna- yes engine was running, and when not running, no lights with key on off position and run position. After work today I will have time to mess around with it. ( my computer guy will look at my puter Sunday to get it up and running so I can get a look at wire diagram, thank god for smartphones so I can still get help on RedSquare!!) 73-18 I hope it's a fuse, just gotta find it, they must be tucked away hidden from view somewhere.... Thanks for replies!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 617 #6 Posted August 11, 2012 I have a 1994 416H. The fuses are below and in front of the battery and easily visible. I have intermittent problems with the fuse holder where I have to run my fingers across the fuses on occasion in order to wiggle them to make good connections. I have heard others here complain about poor connections through the fuse holders. You can also verify that the bulbs are good by directly wiring them to the battery with jumper cables. A simple meter ($10 to $25) helps a lot when troubleshooting electrical problems. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #7 Posted August 12, 2012 You can also verify that the bulbs are good by directly wiring them to the battery with jumper cables. and try a simple jumper from the common ground at the two headlight bulbs to the engine block or (-) battery terminal. Loss of the ground at the hood hinges will turn out both lamps. I agree with Jack - everyone should search out a simple multimeter to have on hand. In this case, a test light will work perfectly well too - and maybe better since the test light draws much more current thru possible corroded connections than a multimeter. The demands made by a simple lamp on corroded circuits shows up defects much better than a multimeter every would. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
