211-5 Engine Swap - Removing PTO and pulleys

[LDPosse 2]

I have a 211-5SB that I inherited recently. My grandfather purchased it new in 1988 and it was used through the 2011 mowing season. It was always parked indoors when not being used, so the paint looks good, and there's no rust. The bad part is, it had the engine oil changed all of 4-5 times in the past 24 years, so it burns oil and it knocks, especially when it's hot. I don't think the chassis ever saw a grease gun. There is a good bit of slop in the front end/steering.

I recently picked up a complete 211-5 off of craigslist. I mainly purchased it as a parts tractor, as it was not in operating condition. It came with a plow, wheel weights, chains, and a 38" deck. The engine on the runs great. Smooth and not a hint of smoke. The downside is, the electric PTO doesn't work, and the pulley on the PTO and the trans pulley are destroyed by someone trying to remove them. The PTO pulley is off, but the transmission drive pulley is still on the engine and I can't figure out how to get it off.

I will also need to very carefully remove the PTO and trans drive pulley from my original engine, as they are in excellent condition. The electric PTO engages as good as new and never slips.

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the pulleys without causing any damage?

Thanks!

[LDPosse 2]

Any suggestons? The engine knocks pretty good and I'm afraid one of these times I'm mowing, the rod is going to come thru the block. This mower sure does a nice job, though!

Installed the bagger setup on it today!

[wh500special 2,277]

I'm going to be very little help here since it's been a long time that I pulled one of those pulleys, but I'll tell you what I remember:

These tractors have a 1" diameter crankshaft sticking straight out of the bottom of the engine. Over that shaft a combination weldment transmission drive pulley/extension shaft is slipped over and set-screwed into place. Over the extension shaft the electric clutch is slipped into place.

To remove the clutch first, you need to remove the little bolt that holds it up tight against the shaft. With enough beating and cussing you might get the clutch off. Usually they are a real bear. You might be able to use a puller secured around the clutch's pulley with the drive point/bolt against the extension shaft. I've knocked a few of them off with hammer blows to the pulley itself while putting pressure on the pulley with a puller. If the clutch is already wrecked you don't have to be as bashful trying to remove it.

After you eventually get the clutch off I've found I have more success removing the engine from the tractor. The trans drive pulley/extension will fit thru the hole in the tractor's frame. Get the engine out of the tractor and on its side on your workbench.

The pulley is an SOB to remove. You can't use a 3 or 4 jaw puller since the shaft in the middle needs to come off at the same time as the pulley. Pushing against that shaft with the puller nets no positive results other than a screwed up pulley. Instead I used to use a heavy steel round bar about 5' long and maybe 1"-1.5" diameter slipped between the pulley and the engine's oil pan. Don't pry with it, instead I would restrain the engine somehow (dad) and use the bar as a place to drive the pulley off with a heavy hammer.

You might be able to use a slide hammer on a puller attached to that pulley. Never tried it.

The relative fragility of the aluminum block engine and cast crankshaft always made me hate to take these things apart. The key to swapping engine is really just to get the clutch off intact so you can reuse it.

Best of luck. I don't envy your task.

Steve

[LDPosse 2]

Steve -

Thanks for the reply! I was hoping I was missing something and there was an easier way to get the pulley off... :handgestures-thumbdown:

[LDPosse 2]

Well I finally figured out how to get the pulley off. The pulley on my "new" engine was already mangled, so I removed that one first.

I stacked some pieces of steel plate against the engine, and used a pickle fork on my air hammer.

I kept adding pieces of steel and hitting it with the air hammer.

I will be thoroughly cleaning the crank, and using plenty of grease when re-assembling, so it won't be so hard to remove next time!